Photography may seem complicated at first, but once you understand a few key concepts—such as camera settings, light, and composition—you can begin taking better photographs very quickly.

In this guide, we’ll explain the essential steps every beginner photographer should take when starting their photography journey.

Start With the Camera You Already Have

Many beginner photographers think they need expensive equipment before they can start learning photography. In reality, the best camera to start with is simply the one you already have.

This could be:

• A smartphone

• A compact camera

• An entry-level DSLR

• A mirrorless camera

What matters most in the beginning is learning how photography works, not how much your camera costs.

Learn the Basic Camera Settings

One of the first things beginner photographers should learn is how their camera controls exposure.

Three main settings affect every photograph:

Aperture

Aperture controls how much light enters the camera and also affects how much of the image appears sharp or blurred.

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed determines how long the camera sensor is exposed to light. Faster speeds freeze movement, while slower speeds can create motion blur.

ISO

ISO controls how sensitive your camera is to light. Higher ISO settings allow you to shoot in darker conditions but can introduce noise into your images.

Understanding how these three settings work together is the foundation of photography.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Learn the Basic Camera Settings

One of the first things beginner photographers should learn is how their camera controls exposure.

Three main settings affect every photograph:

Aperture

Aperture controls how much light enters the camera and also affects how much of the image appears sharp or blurred.

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed determines how long the camera sensor is exposed to light. Faster speeds freeze movement, while slower speeds can create motion blur.

ISO

ISO controls how sensitive your camera is to light. Higher ISO settings allow you to shoot in darker conditions but can introduce noise into your images.

Understanding how these three settings work together is the foundation of photography.

Understand Composition

Composition refers to how the elements in your photo are arranged within the frame.

Learning simple composition techniques can dramatically improve your photos. Some useful techniques for beginners include:

• The rule of thirds

• Leading lines

• Framing your subject

• Filling the frame

• Keeping backgrounds simple

Good composition helps guide the viewer’s eye and makes your images more visually engaging.

Learn to See Light

Photography is all about light. The quality, direction, and intensity of light can completely change the mood of a photograph.

Beginner photographers should start by observing:

• The direction of light

• How shadows appear in a scene

• The difference between soft and harsh light

• How light changes throughout the day

Natural light, especially during early morning and late afternoon, is often ideal for beginners.

How Long Does It Take to Learn Photography?

You can understand the basics within a few weeks.

Most beginners become confident within 3–6 months of consistent practice.

Mastery develops over time through experience, experimentation and refining your understanding of light.

Consistency matters more than speed.

Do I Need an Expensive Camera to Learn Photography?

No.

You can learn photography with:

• An entry-level DSLR

• A mirrorless camera

• Even a smartphone

Understanding light and exposure is far more important than owning expensive equipment.

Many professional photographers began with basic cameras.

Practise Taking Photos Regularly

The best way to improve your photography is to practise.

Try photographing a variety of subjects such as:

• Landscapes

• Portraits

• Architecture

• Nature

• Everyday scenes around you

Each subject will teach you something new about composition, light, and camera settings.

Review and Improve Your Photos

After taking photos, spend time reviewing them and thinking about how they could be improved.

Ask yourself questions such as:

• Is the image sharp?

• Is the exposure correct?

• Is the composition balanced?

• Could the lighting be better?

This process helps you understand what works and what to change next time.

Learn Through Structured Photography Lessons

While practising on your own is important, many beginners find that learning through structured lessons makes the process much easier.

Photography tutorials and courses can help you learn:

• How your camera works

• How to control exposure

• Composition techniques

• How to work with light

• Editing and post-processing

Learning step by step allows beginner photographers to build confidence and develop their skills faster.

Final Thoughts

So, how do beginner photographers start?

They start by learning the basics of photography, practising regularly, and gradually building their understanding of camera settings, composition, and light.

Photography is a skill that improves with time and experience. With the right guidance and consistent practice, anyone can learn to take great photographs.

If you're ready to begin your photography journey, exploring photography tutorials and structured learning can help you develop the skills needed to capture better images.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

But choosing the right hybrid camera isn’t easy. There are countless brands, endless specifications, and price tags that make you nervous about getting it wrong.

This guide simplifies the process. We’ll break down six of the best hybrid cameras for professional and enthusiast use, explain what actually matters for video and photography, and help you decide which one offers the best balance of performance and value.

If you’re a beginner starting out and want to understand camera fundamentals before picking a hybrid camera, check out our beginner tips here – Photography Tips for Beginners

What is a Hybrid Camera?

A hybrid camera is a camera designed to perform at a high level in both photography and videography. Unlike traditional cameras that prioritise still images, hybrid models are engineered to deliver professional-quality video alongside strong photographic performance.

While most modern mirrorless cameras can capture excellent photos, video places far greater demands on processing power, heat management, storage speed, and stabilisation systems.

To be considered a true hybrid camera, it should offer:

• 4K resolution or higher (many now offer 6K).

• Frame rates such as 50 or 60fps for half speed motion.

• Frame rates that allow for ultra slow motion (100fps+).

• In-body image stabilisation (IBIS).

• Advanced autofocus tracking for moving subjects.

• Log recording and 10-bit colour for flexible editing.

In short, a hybrid camera is built for creators who need one camera to handle both professional photography and serious video production without compromise.

If video matters to you just as much as photography, a purpose-built hybrid camera is essential.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

The 6 Best Hybrid Cameras in 2026

(All prices include a lens and are approximate UK prices at time of writing.)

Fujifilm X-S20 – Best Hybrid Camera for Content Creators

Approx. £1,200 (with 15–45mm kit lens)

The Fujifilm X-S20 is one of the strongest entry-to-mid-level hybrid cameras currently available, particularly for creators who need strong video features without jumping into professional cinema budgets.

Key Specs

• 26MP APS-C sensor

• 6.2K open gate recording

• 4K 60fps

• 240fps slow motion (HD)

• 10-bit internal recording

• IBIS (in-body image stabilisation)

• SD card compatible

Why It’s Strong

This is a camera designed with content creators in mind. The 6.2K open gate recording allows flexible cropping for YouTube (16:9), Instagram (4:5), and TikTok/Reels (9:16) without losing resolution.

Fuji’s film simulation modes are a major bonus. For creators who don’t want to spend hours colour grading, these profiles deliver cinematic colour straight out of camera.

It’s also compact and lightweight, making it ideal for:

• Travel creators

• Solo shooters

• YouTubers

• Hybrid photographers who film occasionally

Trade-Offs

• The 15–45mm kit lens is basic

• No internal ProRes

• Slight crop at higher frame rates

Who It’s Best For

• Content creators

• Travel videographers

• Beginner-to-intermediate hybrid shooters

• Anyone wanting strong video specs at a reasonable price

Verdict: One of the best value hybrid cameras in the UK right now.

Need to learn Videography? Check out our 10 hour pro videography course here.

Sony a6700 – Best Hybrid Camera for Autofocus and Run-and-Gun Videography

Approx. £1,500–£1,600 (18–135mm kit)

Sony has built its reputation on autofocus — and the A6700 continues that legacy.

Key Specs

• 26MP APS-C sensor

• 4K 60fps (no crop)

• 4K 120fps (1.58x crop)

• 240fps HD

• Real-time subject tracking

• IBIS

• Compact body

Why It’s Strong

Sony’s real-time autofocus tracking is arguably the most reliable in this class. It excels in:

• Run-and-gun filming

• Weddings

• Events

• Sports

• Documentary shooting

The 18–135mm lens provides an incredibly versatile range, meaning you can often leave the house with just one lens.

Trade-Offs

• Complex menu system

• Single card slot

• Smaller ergonomics may not suit everyone

Who It’s Best For

• Event shooters

• Wedding videographers

• Documentary filmmakers

• Hybrid creators who prioritise autofocus reliability

Verdict: If autofocus is your top priority, this is one of the best hybrid cameras available.

Canon EOS R8 – Best Budget Full Frame Hybrid Camera

Approx. £1,050 (24–50mm kit)

The Canon EOS R8 is one of the cheapest modern full-frame hybrid cameras on the market — and that makes it extremely appealing.

Key Specs

• 24MP full-frame sensor

• 4K 60fps (no crop)

• 180fps HD

• 10-bit colour

• Canon colour science

• Excellent subject detection AF

Why Full Frame Matters

Full frame provides:

• Improved low-light performance

• Shallower depth of field

• More cinematic background separation

• For photography, this is particularly noticeable in portrait work.

Camera Sensor Size Chart & Comparison – Which one is right for you?

Major Drawback

• No IBIS

If you shoot handheld video frequently, this is a serious consideration.

Who It’s Best For

• Hybrid shooters on a budget

• Portrait photographers who film occasionally

• Beginners wanting full frame

• Low-light shooters

Verdict: Arguably the best value full-frame hybrid camera currently available.

Panasonic Lumix S5 II – Best Hybrid Camera for Video-First Creators

Approx. £1,500–£1,600 (20–60mm kit)

Panasonic has always leaned heavily toward video performance — and the S5 II reflects that.

Key Specs

• 24MP full frame

• 6K open gate

• 4K 60fps (1.5x crop)

• 120fps HD

• Excellent IBIS

• Dual SD card slots

• Real-time LUT preview

Why It Stands Out

• This camera is designed for serious videography workflows:

• Log shooting

• LUT previews in-camera

• Strong stabilisation

• Backup card slots

• It’s particularly appealing for creators working solo without a rig.

Trade-Offs

• Autofocus not as strong as Sony/Canon

• L-mount lenses can be expensive

• Some pro features require paid unlock

Who It’s Best For

• Video-first creators

• Indie filmmakers

• YouTubers shooting log

• Hybrid shooters prioritising video flexibility

Verdict: One of the strongest hybrid cameras for video under £2,000.

If videography is your main focus, understanding log shooting, frame rates, codecs and colour grading is essential. Our in-depth Videography Course covers everything from camera setup to professional editing workflows.

Nikon Z6 III – Best Professional Full Frame Hybrid Camera

Approx. £2,000–£2,100 (24–70mm kit)

The Nikon Z6 III is a serious tool for professionals needing balance between photography and advanced video.

Key Specs

• 24MP full frame

• 6K recording

• 5.4K 60fps

• 4K 120fps

• Internal ProRes

• Dual slots (CFexpress + SD)

Why It’s Strong

This is a true hybrid — not photo-first, not video-first — genuinely balanced.

ProRes internal recording makes it suitable for:

- Commercial production

- Professional documentary

- Corporate filming

The dual card slot setup is also ideal for paid client work.

Trade-Offs

• Expensive

• CFexpress cards increase cost

Who It’s Best For

- Professional wedding shooters

- Commercial videographers

- Hybrid freelancers

- Those needing redundancy and pro codecs

Verdict: One of the most complete professional hybrid cameras available.

Fujifilm X-H2S – Best Hybrid Camera Overall for Professional Video and Photography (Our Top Pick)

Approx. £2,600 (body + 18–55mm f/2.8)

This is the most expensive APS-C camera in this list — but it delivers professional-level performance in a compact system.

Key Specs

• 26MP stacked APS-C sensor

• 6.2K open gate

• 4K 120fps

• 240fps HD

• Internal ProRes

• Dual CFexpress Type B

• Excellent IBIS

Why It Stands Out

The stacked sensor enables faster readout speeds, reducing rolling shutter — crucial for video.

It combines:

• Professional codecs

• Compact size

• High frame rates

• Strong stabilisation

It’s used heavily in professional production environments.

Cameras like the X-H2S are capable of professional-level results — but only if you know how to use them properly. Our Videography Course teaches you how to maximise these advanced features in real-world scenarios.

Trade-Offs

• Expensive

• Autofocus not as strong as Sony/Canon

• APS-C (not full frame look)

Who It’s Best For

• Professional hybrid shooters

• Production teams

• Serious content studios

• Creators wanting pro specs in a smaller body

Verdict: The best hybrid camera overall if budget allows.

FAQs About the Best Hybrid Camera

What are the top-rated hybrid cameras for professional use?

For professionals needing both high-end video and strong stills performance, the top-rated hybrid cameras include:

• Fujifilm X-H2S

• Nikon Z6 III

• Panasonic Lumix S5 II

• Sony A6700 (for compact setups)

These offer 4K+ video, high frame rates, log profiles, and strong autofocus systems.

Which hybrid camera brands offer the best value for money?

For value, the strongest contenders are:

• Fujifilm (X-S20) – strong video specs at a competitive price

• Canon (R8) – cheapest modern full-frame hybrid

• Sony (A6700) – strong autofocus and lens ecosystem

Value depends on whether you prioritise full-frame depth of field or compact portability.

Where can I buy reliable hybrid cameras in the UK?

Reliable UK retailers include:

• Wex Photo Video

• Direct from brand websites

Always check warranty coverage and return policies before purchasing.

Where can I buy reliable hybrid cameras in the USA?

Reliable US retailers include:

• Adorama

• Direct from brand websites

Always check warranty coverage and return policies before purchasing.

What are the top hybrid cameras available for photography beginners?

For beginners entering hybrid shooting:

• Fujifilm X-S20

• Canon EOS R8

• Sony A6700

These models offer strong automatic features, excellent autofocus, and room to grow without overwhelming complexity.

How to Choose the Best Hybrid Camera for You

Instead of chasing specs, ask:

• Do you need full frame for shallow depth of field?

• Will you shoot handheld video (IBIS important)?

• Do you need dual card slots?

• Do you want professional codecs like ProRes?

• How important is lens size and portability?

The best hybrid camera is the one that matches your shooting style — not just the highest spec sheet.

Understanding how different light conditions affect your shots — whether video or stills — is essential when choosing a camera. Our guide to natural light photography explains this in more depth. Natural Light Photography

Conclusion

Choosing the best hybrid camera doesn’t have to mean spending the most money. It means finding the right balance between photography performance, video capability, portability, and budget.

Whether you’re a content creator, wedding shooter, or professional filmmaker, there are excellent hybrid options available.

And once you’ve chosen your camera, the real journey begins — learning how to use it properly.

If you want to master photography or videography with your hybrid camera, explore our in-depth courses at The School of Photography, where we teach not just gear — but skill.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you liked this blog on the best hybrid camera. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

Thankfully, Lightroom’s Distraction Removal tool makes fixing these issues easier than ever. Powered by AI, it can remove reflections, eliminate people, and intelligently rebuild backgrounds, all without leaving Lightroom.

In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to use distraction removal in Lightroom, where to find it, and how it compares to removing distractions using other popular photo editing software.

Where Is Distraction Removal in Lightroom?

One of the most common questions photographers ask is: where is distraction removal in Lightroom?

You’ll find it in the Develop module:

1. Open your image in the Develop module.

2. Select the Remove tool (the bandage-style icon).

3. Under the Remove tool, click the Distraction Removal dropdown.

From here, Lightroom gives you some powerful options:

·       Reflections

·       People

·       Dust

Both are AI-driven and designed to solve very specific real-world problems quickly.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

How to Use Distraction Removal in Lightroom for Reflections

Reflections — especially in windows and glass — can be difficult to remove convincingly. This is where Lightroom’s reflection removal really shines.

Step-by-step:

1. Open the Reflections panel under Distraction Removal.

2. Click Apply and let Lightroom analyse the image.

3. Lightroom automatically removes the reflection.

You can then use the slider to control the result:

·       Drag left to see only the reflection.

·       Drag right to fully remove it.

This makes it easy to preview how effective the tool will be before committing.

Preview vs Best Quality

When testing the effect, leave Quality set to Preview.
Once you’re happy and ready to export, switch it to Best — this tells Lightroom to fully process the image at maximum quality.

Tip: Reflection removal won’t work on every image, but when the reflection is clear and well-defined, the results can be remarkably convincing.

How to Remove People from Photos in Lightroom

In Lightroom, removing people is now built directly into the same Distraction Removal tool.

Step-by-step:

1.       Open the People panel under Distraction Removal.

2.       Lightroom automatically detects people in the image.

3.       A mask overlay appears showing the detected subjects.

4.       Click Remove

Lightroom fills in the background intelligently, often producing a clean, natural-looking result in seconds.

Learn more about removing objects in our Lightroom Course

Fine-Tuning the Removal Results

AI doesn’t always get it perfect on the first attempt and Lightroom gives you control when that happens.

Choosing Variations:

If you don’t like the result:

1.       Click on one of the pins (the small black markers).

2.       Select Variations.

3.       Click through the options to choose the best-looking result.

Removing Only Certain People:

If you want to keep one person but remove others:

1.       Click the pin over the person you want to keep.

2.       Disable the removal for that specific pin.

This is ideal for situations where a main subject is important, but background people are distracting.

Once removed, you’re free to finish the image creatively — convert it to black and white, increase contrast, or stylise it for social media without those distractions pulling attention away.

How Lightroom Compares to Other Photo Editing Software

Many photographers ask how to remove distractions from photos using popular photo editing software — and until recently, the answer usually involved Photoshop.

While tools like Photoshop’s Content-Aware Fill and Generative Fill are still extremely powerful, Lightroom’s Distraction Removal has closed the gap significantly:

·       No need to switch applications

·       Faster workflow

·       Non-destructive editing

·       AI trained specifically for reflections and people

For photographers who prefer an efficient, streamlined workflow, Lightroom’s approach is often more than enough for everyday distraction removal.

Learn more on Lightroom here - Learn more on Photoshop here.

Why Distraction Removal Matters

Distraction removal isn’t about “faking” photos — it’s about directing attention. By removing elements that don’t add to the story, you allow viewers to focus on what matters most in the frame.

Used carefully, Lightroom’s AI tools help photographers refine images without losing authenticity or intent.

Conclusion

Lightroom’s Distraction Removal tool is one of the most powerful additions to the software in recent years. Whether you’re removing reflections from glass or clearing people from a scene, it allows you to clean up images quickly and convincingly.

If you’ve been wondering how to use distraction removal in Lightroom, where to find it, or whether it can replace other editing tools — the answer is simple: it’s fast, effective, and well worth learning.

To truly master Lightroom, including AI tools like Distraction Removal, Masking, and advanced retouching, explore our in-depth Lightroom course

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this blog on How to Use Distraction Removal in Lightroom. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

The truth is, AI won’t kill photography. It might change it, challenge it, and even redefine how we work, but it will never replace the experience, passion, or creativity that drives photographers to pick up a camera.

In this blog, we’ll explore how AI is reshaping photography without replacing photographers, and why the art form remains as alive and human as ever.

Will AI Kill Photography? Not When Photography Is About Experience

A rainy weekend in the New Forest offers a useful way to answer the question: will AI kill photography? The conditions are the kind photographers often dread, flat grey light, heavy cloud, and persistent rain, with none of the golden autumn glow so many people hope for. And yet, that’s exactly why the point becomes clear.

AI can generate flawless, picture-perfect forest scenes in seconds. But it can’t recreate the experience of being there: the early start, the commitment to shoot regardless of the weather, the problem-solving around composition and light, and the satisfaction of making something work when conditions aren’t cooperating.

In difficult light, the creative process becomes the reward. Limitations force photographers to draw on their knowledge and make deliberate choices. Even if only a small number of images from the weekend truly feel successful, the value is in the craft — and in the enjoyment that comes from earning the photograph rather than generating it.

How AI Is Changing Photography — Without Replacing It

When people ask will AI kill photography, they’re often really asking whether photographers will still be needed. The truth is that AI is changing the industry, but mostly by automating repetitive tasks and making certain types of generic imagery cheaper and faster to produce.

AI is influencing nearly every part of the photography world, from editing software to camera technology, but it’s doing so in a way that enhances the craft, not replaces it.

1. AI-Powered Editing Tools That Work with You, Not Instead of You

AI editing software is getting smarter every month. Tools like Adobe Lightroom’s AI Masking, Luminar Neo, and Topaz Photo AI use machine learning to select subjects, remove noise, and even enhance details automatically.

But these tools don’t make creative decisions for you — you decide how far to push them. They free up time for photographers to focus on storytelling, colour, and mood rather than tedious retouching.

TSOP Tip: AI should handle repetition, not imagination. Use it to save time, not to skip the creative process.

Learn more on Lightroom here - Learn more on Photoshop here.

2. AI Features in Cameras Are Quietly Making Photos Better

Modern cameras — from smartphones to mirrorless systems — are already powered by AI.

Features like subject detection, intelligent autofocus, and real-time scene recognition improve sharpness and exposure automatically.

But crucially, they don’t remove the photographer’s touch. Instead, they act like an assistant — refining the technical side so you can focus on the creative side.

Example: Sony’s Real-time Eye AF, Canon’s Deep Learning autofocus, and Apple’s computational photography all use AI to help you capture the shot you envisioned — not a shot the computer chose for you.

Learn more on your camera settings here.

3. AI Enhancing Photos from Traditional Cameras

AI post-processing tools can breathe new life into images captured on DSLRs or mirrorless cameras. Whether it’s denoising, sharpening, or colour balancing, AI can enhance traditional images without stripping them of their authenticity.

A good example is Topaz Gigapixel AI, which upscales images while maintaining realistic texture — perfect for large prints or exhibitions.

The key is subtlety. The goal isn’t to make the image look AI-generated, but to use AI to reveal details that were already there.

Learn more about Denoise in our Lightroom Course

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

The Real Risk: Stock Photography and Generic Images

There’s one corner of photography where AI is disrupting fast, stock photography. If a company wants a generic forest scene or a product mock-up, they can now generate it with prompts in DALL·E, Gemini, or Midjourney in seconds.

That means photographers who rely solely on stock sales will find competition tougher than ever. But this decline didn’t start with AI, it began years ago, when digital platforms and oversupply drove down prices.

Photography that relies on uniqueness, experience, and human connection, such as weddings, portraits, documentary, or fine art will remain irreplaceable.

Creativity Can’t Be Automated

Photography is 50% technical and 50% emotional. AI might be able to mimic the first half — exposure, sharpness, colour, but it will never replicate the second.

When you’re out in bad weather, composing a scene, or waiting for the light to shift, you’re part of a process that no algorithm can feel. It’s this emotional connection that gives photographs their soul.

The same goes for teaching. Learning photography, experimenting, and improving through trial and error are all deeply human experiences. AI can offer suggestions, but it can’t replace the mentorship and feedback that help photographers grow.

AI in Photography Education: Learning How to Use AI Without Losing Your Style

The question “will AI kill photography” also shows up in education — especially from beginners wondering whether it’s still worth learning camera skills. It’s arguably more important than ever to learn the fundamentals, because AI tools work best when guided by someone who understands light, composition, and visual intention.

Rather than being a threat, AI is increasingly becoming a practical learning tool for photographers. Used well, it can speed up repetitive tasks, simplify complex edits, and help photographers understand what’s possible in post-production — without removing the need for creative decision-making.

Courses that teach AI tools effectively do exist, and they’re becoming essential for photographers who want to stay current. Our Lightroom and Photoshop courses cover modern AI-powered features including Masking, AI Denoise, and Generative Fill, focusing on how to apply them in a way that supports creative intent and maintains a natural, authentic finish

TSOP Insight: The future belongs to photographers who combine technical skill with creative thinking — and AI is just another tool in that journey.

Are you a beginner photographer? - Check out our Beginner Photography Course.

The Companies Powering AI Photography

Several companies are leading the charge in creating AI software that complements professional photography rather than replacing it:

• Adobe – AI masking, Denoise, and Generative Fill features in Lightroom and Photoshop.

• Skylum (Luminar Neo) – Automated sky replacement, portrait retouching, and lighting enhancement.

• Topaz Labs – Industry-leading noise reduction and upscaling powered by AI.

• ON1 Photo RAW – Smart masking and adaptive AI adjustments.

• NVIDIA Studio – GPU-powered AI features for advanced rendering and editing.

These tools are designed to support photographers — not sideline them.

The Part AI Can’t Replace

AI can speed up editing, generate ideas, and even produce convincing images on demand. But photography isn’t only the finished picture, it’s the decisions, the timing, and the interpretation behind it. Waiting for the right light, adapting to difficult conditions, choosing what to include (and what to leave out), and responding emotionally to a scene are all human inputs that shape the final photograph.

That’s why photography will evolve alongside AI rather than disappear. The tools change, but the heart of the craft the creative intent, personal vision, and storytelling will stay human.

Conclusion

So, will AI kill photography? No, but it will continue to change parts of the industry, particularly where imagery is generic, repeatable, and purely functional.

AI has changed photography forever, but not by killing it. It’s a collaborator, not a competitor. When used wisely, AI tools help photographers work faster, push creative boundaries, and focus on what really matters: seeing the world through their own eyes.

So, the next time you hear someone say, “AI will replace photographers,” remember this:

AI can create the picture, but it can’t create the passion.

If you want to learn how to use AI and Lightroom together to enhance your creativity, explore our Lightroom Course and Photoshop Course.

And if you’re serious about building your skills from composition to post-processing, join our community of photographers by becoming a member, where learning, creativity, and connection will always come before automation.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this blog on the topic of AI photography. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more. You may also enjoy this tutorial on AI Photography.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

The Camera Bag

One thing that’s a non-negotiable when it comes to your kit bag, is the bag itself! For those looking to capture the urban environments, fit everything you may need on your back and blend in while doing it, we’d recommend checking out the ThinkTank Mirrorless Mover Backpack.

Think Tank Backpacks are well-made and fantastic quality. This line is great for blending in, which is something you really want when you’re in an urban setting, and don’t want to let everyone know that you’re carrying expensive camera gear! It also has plenty of space for a tripod, laptop and water bottle for when you’re on the go, plus with the benefit of being small and able to carry everything you need.

Interested in getting one for yourself? Check out the ThinkTank website here.

The Camera

We recommend something lightweight with fully manual controls like a mirrorless or DLSR camera. Shooting on a camera with fully manual capabilities and the ability to change lenses is going to add more versatility to your photography as you won’t be limited to the automatic settings on your camera or built in focal lengths.

We’ve recently put the Canon mirrorless range to the test, want to know which one’s for you? Click here.

Recommended equipment for Street Photography

Street photography captures candid moments of everyday life in public spaces. It focuses on unposed scenes, often featuring people going about their daily activities in urban environments. This genre requires quick reflexes, keen observation, and the ability to blend into the surroundings.

Want to know more about Street Photography? Check out the course here.

Lens: Start off with a prime lens, either 35mm or 50mm. These lenses offer a natural perspective similar to the human eye, which is perfect for capturing people within their surroundings. They also tend to have wider apertures, allowing for better low-light performance and beautiful background blur (bokeh) to isolate your subjects.

The most common focal length for street photography is 35mm, as it provides a wide enough field of view to capture context while still allowing for intimate shots.

Other lenses to consider include:

Recommended equipment for Architectural Photography

Architectural photography involves capturing the design, aesthetics, and structural elements of buildings and other man-made structures. This genre requires attention to detail, an understanding of perspective and composition, and often involves working with challenging lighting conditions.

Learn more about photographing architecture here.

Lens: Start off with a wide-angle lens (16-35mm or similar). A must-have for architectural photography, this lens allows you to capture the grandeur and scale of buildings and interiors, even in tight spaces.

Also pack:

• A Tripod: It eliminates camera shake, ensuring sharp images, especially when shooting in low-light conditions or using long exposures to capture the movement of clouds or people.

The Best Camera Tripod – Complete Buyers Guide

• Remote shutter release: This handy accessory further minimizes camera shake by allowing you to trigger the shutter without physically touching the camera.

Polarizing filter: This filter reduces reflections and glare on glass surfaces, improving contrast and colour saturation in your architectural photos.

• Neutral density filter (ND filter): An ND filter reduces the amount of light entering the camera, allowing for longer exposures during daylight. This can be used creatively to blur moving elements like clouds or water, adding a sense of dynamism to your architectural compositions.

Learn more about ND filters here.

Recommended equipment for Urban Landscape Photography

Urban landscape photography focuses on capturing the broader view of cities and urban environments. It often includes cityscapes, skylines, and the interplay between natural and man-made elements in urban settings. This genre requires an eye for composition, patience to wait for the right light, and the ability to find unique vantage points.

Learn more about Urban Landscape Photography here.

Lenses: Start off with Wide-angle lens (16-35mm or similar). It captures the vastness and scale of urban landscapes, showcasing the sprawling cityscape in all its glory. You can also try a Telephoto lens (70-200mm or similar). This will allow you to isolate specific elements within the cityscape, such as iconic landmarks or interesting architectural details, and compress perspective for a unique and dynamic look.

Also pack..

• Tripod: To help keep those images sharp for longer exposures.

Add image of a tripod

• As above an ND filter allows for longer exposures during the day, creating ethereal effects like silky smooth water or streaky clouds in your urban landscapes.

• Graduated neutral density filter (GND filter): A GND filter helps balance the exposure between a bright sky and a darker foreground, preventing overexposed skies and underexposed foregrounds, especially during sunrise and sunset.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of members work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Recommended equipment for Urban Portrait Photography:

Urban portrait photography focuses on capturing people within the context of the city. Rather than isolating the subject, it emphasizes the relationship between individuals and their urban surroundings. This genre often blends human expression with architectural backdrops, street textures, and the rhythm of city life. It requires an eye for composition, an awareness of light and shadows in dynamic environments, and the ability to frame portraits that highlight both personality and place.

Lenses: A prime lens like 50mm, 85mm, or 105mm are great for portrait photography due to their ability to create a flattering perspective and beautiful background blur (bokeh) that isolates your subject from the busy urban environment. A Zoom lens like a 24-70mm can also be a solid option for urban portraits, as it gives you flexibility in framing and allowing you to adapt to different shooting situations and locations.

Also pack…

• Off-camera flash: An off-camera flash allows you to add creative lighting to your urban portraits, controlling the direction and intensity of the light for dramatic or flattering effects. It’s also great when you’re shooting in a darker environment.

Recommended equipment for Urban Night Photography:

Urban night photography focuses on capturing the city after dark, when artificial light transforms the urban landscape. It often highlights illuminated skylines, glowing streetlights, neon signs, and the interplay between shadows and reflections. This genre requires careful attention to exposure, an understanding of how different light sources shape mood, and patience to find the right timing—whether it’s during blue hour, under glowing street lamps, or in the stillness of midnight. The challenge lies in balancing technical precision with creative vision to reveal the unique character of a city at night.

Learn how to capture the urban night in our Photographing Cities at Night Course.

Lens: Kick off with a fast prime lens with an aperture of f1.8 or wider! These lenses capture more light, enabling you to use lower ISO settings and faster shutter speeds to reduce noise and capture sharper images in low-light conditions. If you’re looking for a wider shot, pack a wide angle (16-35mm or similar) and make sure you use a tripod!

Also pack…

• Tripod: Essential for long exposures! Great for capturing light trails, star trails, and vibrant cityscapes. You can find out all about capturing light trails in our tutorial.

• Remote shutter release: This accessory further minimizes camera shake during long exposures, ensuring sharp and clear images.

Conclusion

Remember, the best gear is the one you have with you and know how to use effectively. Don't hesitate to experiment with different techniques and explore new perspectives to capture the unique essence of urban environments. If you’re looking to see our full list of recommended kit for beginners, click here.

Happy snapping!

Check out these tutorials below

I hope you liked our blog on the Urban Photography Kit List For Beginners, if you did, please leave us a comment, and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

In this guide, we’ll explore the fundamentals of natural light photography, how to harness it for different situations, and advanced techniques that will help you take your images to the next level.

What Is Natural Light Photography and How Does It Work?

Types of Natural Light in Natural Light Photography

Natural light photography is one of the most powerful and versatile techniques in photography. Using sunlight as your primary light source is not only free and accessible, but it also creates authentic, natural-looking images that artificial lighting often struggles to replicate. From soft window light and golden hour glow to dramatic backlighting and overcast skies, understanding how natural light works can transform your photography.

Whether you’re shooting portraits, landscapes, product photography, or everyday moments, learning how to control light direction, timing, and camera settings will dramatically improve your results. In this complete guide to natural light photography, you’ll discover essential techniques, the best times of day to shoot, recommended camera settings, and advanced tips to help you capture stunning, professional-quality images using available light.

Natural Light Photography: Understanding and Mastering Available Light

Direction of Natural Light in Photography

Natural light photography is all about learning to see, shape, and control the light that already exists around you. Unlike studio lighting, where you create and position light sources, natural light requires observation and adaptation. The quality, direction, intensity, and colour of available light will all influence how your final image looks.

To truly master natural light photography, you must understand how light interacts with your subject. Light creates highlights, shadows, depth, mood, and texture. By recognising how it falls across a scene, you can make intentional creative decisions instead of leaving the result to chance.

One of the most important aspects to understand is the direction of natural light.

Natural Light Photography: Best Time of Day to Shoot

Golden Hour Photography in Natural Light Photography

In natural light photography, the time of day dramatically affects the quality, colour, and direction of light. The angle of the sun determines how shadows fall, how textures appear, and how much contrast your image will have. Understanding how light direction changes throughout the day allows you to choose the best conditions for your subject.

Front Lighting

Front lighting occurs when the sun is positioned behind the photographer, shining directly onto the subject. This creates evenly lit images with minimal shadows, making it ideal for capturing detail, vibrant colours, and sharp results. Front lighting works particularly well for portraits, travel photography, and scenes where clarity is more important than mood or drama. However, because shadows are reduced, images can sometimes appear flatter with less depth.

Side Lighting

Side lighting happens when the sun strikes the subject from the left or right. This is one of the most effective lighting directions in natural light photography because it creates contrast, depth, and texture. The shadows formed by side light emphasise shapes, lines, and facial features, making it especially powerful for portrait photography and landscape photography. If you want dimension and a more dynamic image, side lighting is often the best choice.

Backlighting

Backlighting occurs when the light source is behind the subject. This can create dramatic silhouettes, glowing rim light, and beautiful flare effects — particularly during golden hour. Backlighting is especially effective in early morning or late afternoon when the sun is lower in the sky and softer in intensity. While it can be challenging to expose correctly, mastering backlighting can elevate your natural light photography and produce striking, professional-looking images.

Natural Light Photography Camera Settings: ISO, Aperture & Shutter Speed

Choosing the Right Aperture for Natural Light Photography

When shooting in natural light photography, understanding the quality of light — whether it is hard or soft — helps you choose the right aperture and exposure settings. Light quality affects contrast, shadow detail, and how much texture appears in your image. By adjusting your aperture accordingly, you can control depth of field while balancing highlights and shadows.

Hard Light

Hard light is direct and undiffused, typically seen in bright midday sun. It creates strong contrast and sharp, defined shadows. In natural light photography, hard light can emphasise texture, structure, and detail, making it effective for architectural shots or dramatic portraits.

When working in hard light, you may need a narrower aperture (higher f-number) to maintain sharpness and control bright highlights. Being mindful of exposure is essential to avoid blown-out areas in high-contrast scenes.

Soft Light

Soft light is diffused by clouds, window sheers, shade, or reflectors. It produces gentle transitions between highlights and shadows, resulting in more even and flattering illumination. Overcast days and golden hour are common examples of soft natural light.

Soft light is particularly popular in portrait photography because it reduces harsh shadows and smooths skin tones. In these conditions, you can use a wider aperture (lower f-number) to create a shallow depth of field while maintaining balanced exposure.

Using Natural Light Photography Techniques for Different Photography Styles

Natural Light Portrait Photography Techniques

In natural light portrait photography, understanding colour temperature is essential for capturing accurate skin tones and creating the right mood. Natural light changes colour throughout the day, shifting from warm golden tones at sunrise and sunset to cooler blue tones during midday and shade. Learning to recognise these changes allows you to adjust your white balance settings and reduce the need for heavy post-processing.

Colour temperature is measured in Kelvin (K) — a scale used to describe the warmth or coolness of light.

• Lower Kelvin values (2000–4000K) produce warmer, orange or yellow tones.

• Higher Kelvin values (6000–10,000K) produce cooler, blue tones.

• Neutral daylight typically sits around 5500K.

Understanding how colour temperature affects natural light photography helps you make creative decisions about mood, atmosphere, and skin tone accuracy.

Warm Light (Golden Hour)

Warm light occurs at sunrise and sunset, commonly known as golden hour. During this time, the sun sits lower in the sky, and its light passes through more of the atmosphere. This scatters shorter blue wavelengths and allows warmer tones — yellows, oranges, and reds — to dominate.

Golden hour light typically ranges from 2000K to 4000K and creates soft, flattering illumination. In portrait photography, this warm glow enhances skin tones and produces a natural, inviting feel.

Neutral Midday Light

Around midday, when the sun is highest in the sky, natural light becomes more neutral. Colour temperature is approximately 5500K, which is close to white daylight. While this light is brighter and more direct, it can also be harsher and create strong shadows.

For natural light portrait photography, midday light often benefits from diffusers, reflectors, or open shade to soften contrast.

Blue Hour

Blue hour occurs twice daily:

• Just before sunrise

• Shortly after sunset

During these short periods, the sun is below the horizon and indirect light creates a soft, predominantly blue tone. Colour temperatures can range from 8000K to 10,000K, producing a cooler, moodier atmosphere. Blue hour works well for dramatic portraits and cinematic effects.

Overcast and Shade

Cloud cover and shaded areas diffuse sunlight, often producing cooler light between 6500K and 10,000K. Although cooler in tone, overcast light is soft and even — making it ideal for flattering portraits with minimal harsh shadows.

By understanding how colour temperature shifts throughout the day, you gain greater control over mood, tone, and skin accuracy in natural light photography. Instead of relying heavily on editing, you can choose the right time of day and adjust your camera’s white balance to create the desired effect in-camera.

Natural Light Photography Tips for Better Photos

How to Soften Harsh Natural Light in Natural Light Photography

Harsh natural light — most common during midday when the sun is high in the sky — can create strong contrast, blown highlights, and deep, unflattering shadows. While hard light can be used creatively, most photographers aim to soften it to achieve more balanced exposure and flattering results.

In natural light photography, learning how to control and modify harsh light is a key skill. The goal is to reduce contrast, diffuse shadows, and create smoother transitions between highlights and dark areas.

1. Move Into Open Shade

One of the simplest ways to soften harsh natural light is to reposition your subject into open shade. This could be under a tree, beside a building, under an archway, or near a doorway. Open shade blocks direct sunlight while still allowing soft ambient light to illuminate your subject evenly.

This technique works particularly well for portrait photography, as it reduces harsh shadows under the eyes and nose while maintaining natural skin tones.

2. Use a Diffuser

A diffuser is one of the most effective tools in natural light photography. By placing a translucent material between the sun and your subject, you spread and soften the light source. This reduces sharp shadows and lowers contrast.

Even simple solutions like sheer curtains, white fabric, or purpose-built reflectors with diffusion panels can dramatically improve results when shooting in strong sunlight.

3. Adjust Your Shooting Angle

Sometimes softening harsh light is as simple as changing your angle. Turning your subject slightly away from direct sunlight or positioning the sun to the side can reduce extreme contrast. Side lighting often creates more flattering dimension compared to direct overhead light.

You can also experiment with slight backlighting, allowing the sun to fall behind your subject while exposing for their face.

4. Use Reflectors to Fill Shadows

Reflectors bounce light back onto your subject, helping to lift deep shadows without adding artificial lighting. A white reflector creates soft fill light, while a silver reflector produces brighter, more defined highlights.

In natural light photography, reflectors are especially useful when shooting outdoors during bright conditions where shadows appear too dark.

5. Adjust Camera Settings for Better Exposure

In harsh light, protecting highlights is crucial. Slightly underexposing your image can help preserve detail in bright areas. Shooting in RAW format also gives you more flexibility to recover shadows and highlights during editing.

Lower ISO settings and careful aperture selection can help maintain image quality while balancing exposure in high-contrast scenes.

Building on these techniques, you can apply light control principles across different photography styles. Whether you're shooting portraits, landscapes, or product photography, understanding how to soften and shape natural light allows you to create more professional, polished images — even in challenging conditions.

Mastering Natural Light Photography: Key Takeaways

In natural light photography, portrait photography often benefits from soft, diffused light that creates flattering skin tones and minimises harsh shadows. Using natural light for portraits allows you to achieve authentic, professional-looking results without the need for artificial lighting. Understanding when and how to use available light is key to mastering natural light portrait photography.

Golden Hour

Golden hour — the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset — is widely regarded as the best time for natural light photography, especially for portraits. During this time, the light is warm, soft, and directional, creating a beautiful glow around your subject. The lower angle of the sun produces longer, softer shadows, adding depth, dimension, and a cinematic quality to your images.

Overcast Days

Cloudy conditions are ideal for natural light photography because the clouds act as a giant diffuser. This creates soft, even lighting — similar to a natural softbox — that reduces harsh shadows and balances skin tones. Overcast light is particularly effective for close-up portraits, lifestyle photography, and situations where you want a smooth, flattering finish.

Backlighting

Backlighting is a powerful technique in natural light photography. Positioning your subject with the light source behind them can create a dramatic rim light or glowing halo effect, especially during golden hour. To prevent underexposure, use a reflector to bounce light back onto the subject’s face or slightly increase your exposure while protecting highlights.

Best Time to Use Natural Light in Landscape Photography

In natural light photography, the direction, quality, and colour of light are just as important in landscape photography as they are in portraits. When planning a landscape shoot, considering the time of day and the angle of the sun can dramatically influence mood, texture, and depth. Understanding how natural light interacts with terrain, water, and sky will help you capture more dynamic and visually compelling landscape images.

Golden Hour

Golden hour is one of the best times for natural light photography in landscapes. The warm, low-angle sunlight enhances textures and creates long shadows that add depth and dimension to your scene. This soft, directional light works beautifully in forests, deserts, mountains, and coastal environments, bringing out rich colours and natural contrast without harsh highlights.

Midday Light

Although midday light can be harsh and challenging for portraits, it can still be effective in natural light photography for landscapes. The strong overhead sun creates bold contrast, vibrant colours, and crisp details — ideal for capturing dramatic skies, turquoise waters, or architectural structures. Because shadows are shorter at midday, it can also be useful for minimising distracting shadow patterns in certain compositions.

Cloudy or Overcast Skies

Cloud cover acts as a natural diffuser, softening the light and reducing harsh shadows. In natural light landscape photography, overcast conditions are excellent for capturing scenes with heavy texture, such as woodlands, waterfalls, or rocky terrain. The diffused light creates even exposure across the frame, helping preserve detail in both highlights and shadows.

Landscape Photography Tips for Beginners

Natural Light Product Photography Techniques

In natural light photography, soft and even lighting is essential when shooting products. Harsh shadows and overexposed highlights can distract from important details, textures, and colours. Using natural light for product photography is especially effective when capturing food, handmade items, or lifestyle products where you want to create a warm, authentic, and inviting feel.

Diffused Light

Diffused light is ideal for natural light product photography. Position your product near a large window with sheer curtains to soften direct sunlight, or place it on a light-coloured surface to help reflect and spread the light evenly. This reduces harsh reflections and glare while maintaining clean, professional-looking highlights. Soft window light is particularly effective for food photography and small eCommerce products.

Reflectors

Reflectors are simple but powerful tools in natural light photography. A white reflector creates soft fill light, while a silver reflector produces a brighter, more defined bounce. Placing a reflector opposite your light source helps fill in deep shadows and creates balanced, even illumination across the product. This technique ensures your subject stands out clearly without losing detail in darker areas.

Learn more about Product Photography at Home.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of members work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Advanced Natural Light Photography Techniques

Reflectors and diffusers are essential tools for controlling light in natural light photography. Because you cannot reposition the sun, these tools allow you to modify existing light — either by bouncing it back onto your subject or softening it to reduce contrast.

Reflectors

Reflectors are used to bounce natural light back onto your subject, helping to fill in shadows and create a more balanced exposure. In portrait photography, this can reduce shadows under the eyes and chin. In product photography, it helps reveal detail without adding artificial light.

You don’t need expensive equipment — a white foam board, a mirror, or even a light-coloured wall can act as a reflector.

• White reflectors create soft, neutral fill light.

• Silver reflectors produce brighter highlights and stronger contrast.

• Gold reflectors add warmth, which can enhance skin tones during golden hour natural light photography.

Diffusers

When sunlight is too harsh — particularly during midday — a diffuser helps soften and spread the light evenly across your subject. Diffusion reduces sharp shadows, lowers contrast, and creates smoother transitions between highlights and darker areas.

You can use a professional collapsible diffuser, sheer curtains, or even a white bedsheet to soften direct sunlight. In natural light photography, diffusers are especially useful for portraits and product shots where flattering, even illumination is key.

Why You Should Shoot in RAW for Natural Light Photography

In natural light photography, lighting conditions can change quickly and unpredictably. From strong backlighting and high-contrast midday sun to mixed lighting in shaded areas, achieving perfect exposure in-camera isn’t always easy. This is why shooting in RAW format is one of the most important technical decisions you can make.

RAW files capture significantly more image data than JPEG files. Instead of compressing and discarding information, RAW preserves the full dynamic range recorded by your camera sensor. This gives you far greater flexibility when editing natural light images.

Greater Dynamic Range

Natural light photography often involves scenes with bright highlights and deep shadows — for example, portraits during golden hour or landscapes at sunrise. RAW files retain more detail in both bright and dark areas, allowing you to:

• Recover blown-out highlights

• Lift shadow detail without excessive noise

• Maintain smoother tonal transitions

This is especially useful when shooting backlit portraits or high-contrast outdoor scenes.

More Accurate White Balance

Because natural light shifts in colour temperature throughout the day, your white balance can easily appear too warm or too cool. RAW files allow you to adjust white balance non-destructively in post-processing without degrading image quality.

Whether you’re correcting cool tones from overcast light or fine-tuning the warmth of golden hour, RAW gives you full control.

Better Exposure Adjustments

Even experienced photographers occasionally underexpose or slightly overexpose when working with changing natural light. RAW files allow you to adjust exposure more effectively without losing detail or introducing banding and artefacts.

This flexibility is invaluable in natural light photography, where lighting conditions can evolve within minutes.

Improved Editing Flexibility

If you plan to enhance colours, adjust contrast, or apply creative grading, RAW files handle edits far more gracefully than JPEGs. Skin tones remain smoother, gradients stay cleaner, and overall image quality is preserved.

Shooting in RAW ensures you maximise the potential of every natural light image. While it requires slightly more storage space and post-processing time, the increased dynamic range, colour accuracy, and editing flexibility make it an essential choice for serious natural light photography.

Using Manual Mode and Exposure Settings in Natural Light Photography

Whether you're using a DSLR, mirrorless camera or even a film camera, taking control of your exposure settings is crucial when working with natural light. You have less control over the scene as you’re not setting your own lighting conditions, so you need to know how to adapt your settings to get the shot!

Shutter Speed: To avoid motion blur, use a faster shutter speed, especially when shooting handheld. A good rule of thumb for handheld shots is to set the shutter speed to at least the inverse of your lens’s focal length (e.g., 1/50 sec for a 50mm lens).

Learn about focal lengths and shutter speeds here.

Aperture: For portraits, a wide aperture (e.g., f/1.8 to f/4) will help you create a shallow depth of field and keep the background beautifully blurred. For landscapes, use a smaller aperture ( f/8 to f/16) to keep both foreground and background in sharp focus.

What is aperture in photography? we’ll have it explained in no time!

ISO: Keep your ISO as low as possible to avoid noise. However, if the light is low (such as on an overcast day or at dusk), you may need to raise your ISO to maintain a good exposure.

Want to master the settings on your camera? Check out our Beginner’s photography course.

Mastering Natural Light Photography

Natural light photography is one of the most powerful and versatile approaches to creating compelling images. By understanding light direction, intensity, colour temperature, and exposure, you gain the ability to shape mood, depth, and atmosphere in any environment. Mastering natural light photography isn’t about controlling the sun — it’s about learning to observe it, adapt to it, and use it creatively.

The key to improvement is consistent practice. As you continue shooting in different lighting conditions — from golden hour and blue hour to overcast skies and bright midday sun — you’ll develop an intuitive understanding of how natural light behaves and how to use it to your advantage.

We’d love to see how you apply these natural light photography techniques in your own work. Share your images and experiences with our community, keep refining your skills, and continue exploring the endless creative possibilities that available light provides.

Keep learning, keep shooting, and enjoy the journey of mastering natural light photography.

Check out these tutorials below

I hope you liked our blog Natural Light Photography, if you did, please leave us a comment, and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

But capturing those light beams naturally is rare. The weather, time of day, time of year, and location all must line up perfectly. You also need misty mornings, low sun, and clear patches in the canopy. So, getting all those things to line up might not be practically possible. Fortunately, Lightroom allows you to recreate those conditions digitally with just a few smart adjustments.

And please note: Post-processing isn’t about faking light; it’s about enhancing the light that was already there. In this tutorial, we’ll show you how to add realistic, natural-looking light beams to your photos using Lightroom’s Masking tools. This technique is quick, effective, and perfect for forest or woodland photography.

For a full tutorial in Masking in Lightroom, click here.

Do what you can in camera first

You don’t need any special gear for this technique, but getting the right photo to begin with will make your results more convincing.

1. A Good Base Image

Start with a well-exposed image that has a clear light source. This is typically the sun peeking through a gap in the trees. This will make your added beams look natural rather than artificial.

When framing your image in the field, think ahead: compose with the light source in mind. In this example, the sunburst was deliberately placed in the top-right corner, setting up a natural direction for the beams to travel through the scene.

2. Shoot in RAW

RAW files preserve the detail and dynamic range you’ll need when adjusting light and shadow in post-production.

3. Adobe Lightroom Classic

You’ll need the Masking tools in Lightroom — specifically the Brush and Luminance Range masks.

Tip: Get it right in-camera. Know where your light is coming from before you shoot, and you’ll have a much better foundation when editing later.

Check out our Forest Photography Course led by landscape expert Jake Lodge, where you’ll learn how to capture magical woodland scenes from the ground up.

Basic Edit in Lightroom

Begin with your base edit. Balance exposure, contrast, and colour before adding any creative effects. You can see the difference between the raw image and the final version — the light beams add atmosphere, but the foundation of the shot remains solid.

Learn Lightroom Properly Here.

Creating the Light Beams

Now for the fun part — let’s create those beams.

1.       Open the Masking Panel: Click the masking icon, then delete any existing masks.

2.       Select the Brush Tool.

3.       Set the following Brush settings:

• Feather: 100

• Flow: 100

• Density: Around 90

Now identify your light source in the image (for example, a gap in the canopy).

4.       Create a small brush > Click once near the light source.

5.       Move down to where you want the beam to hit and enlarge the brush.

6.       Hold Shift and click again — Lightroom will draw a perfect, tapered beam between those two points.

7.       Repeat for additional light beams where natural highlights occur on the forest floor.

Tip: Light beams should enhance, not overpower. Look for areas already catching light and use them as guides.

Masking in Lightroom – Full Tutorial

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Refining the Beams

Once your beams are in place, fine-tune the effect:

8. Lift Exposure and Highlights slightly to make them glow.

9. Adjust the Amount slider to control strength.

You can also gently paint in extra light around bright spots to balance the composition — for example, where sunlight might scatter through mist or branches.

Adding Warmth

Natural sunlight is warm, especially during golden hour.

10. Increase the Temperature slider slightly toward yellow/orange to make the light feel more realistic.

Toggle the mask on and off — you’ll see how those subtle beams completely change the mood of your shot.

Making the Beams Interact with the Scene

To keep things believable, light shouldn’t fall where it logically wouldn’t — such as behind a tree trunk or under dense branches.

11. Make sure you are still selected on your beam mask.

12. Click Subtract > Object.

13. Paint over the tree or branch that should block the beam. Lightroom will automatically detect the object and remove the light beam from that area.

14. For smaller details, choose Subtract > Brush and paint manually to remove light from under branches or shadowed spots.

These refinements make the effect look natural — as if the beams are weaving through the trees, not over them.

Adding a Luminance Range Mask

To add a warmth to the main light source itself (like a warm glow at the top of the frame):

15.       Create a new mask and select Luminance Range.

16.       Use the eyedropper to click on the brightest area of your light source.

17.       Adjust the range slider to narrow it down to the highlights.

18.       Increase Temperature for warmth and Saturation if needed.

This small touch adds richness and realism — making your light source match the tone of your beams.

Extras - The Power of HDR Editing

If you’re shooting into the sun, you’ll often get strong contrasts and dark tree trunks. This is where HDR helps.

By blending three bracketed exposures (one normal, one underexposed, and one overexposed) you can retain detail in both highlights and shadows. Lightroom’s HDR Photo Merge feature makes this simple. With the HDR base, your edited beams will sit naturally within a balanced tonal range.

Conclusion

Still life flower photography is one of the most rewarding ways to develop your eye for detail and composition. It slows you down and encourages you to think about every aspect of the image — from how the petals curve to how light falls across the vase. By experimenting with lighting direction, aperture, and arrangement, you’ll soon start to see how subtle changes can transform a simple setup into something extraordinary.

Whether you’re shooting in a lightbox or by a window, the goal is the same: to create images that feel timeless and intentional. Don’t be afraid to play with textures, try new lighting angles, or edit your shots with a fine-art finish. The more you explore, the more you’ll refine your creative voice.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you liked this tutorial on how to create light beams in Lightroom. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

What is street photography?

Street photography is a visual diary of our bustling urban landscapes. It offers a glimpse into everyday lives within the bustling streets, squares, and alleyways.

A brief history of street photography

Street photography emerged alongside the advent of portable cameras in the late 19th century. Early practitioners, armed with small and portable equipment, ventured into the streets to document the rapidly changing urban environments. Notable early examples include the works of Eugène Atget, whose haunting images of Parisian streets captured the city's essence in the early 20th century.

The genre became more popular during the mid-20th century, as 35mm cameras made photography more accessible. Famous street photographers like Henri Cartier-Bresson, often regarded as the father of modern street photography, embraced the concept of "the decisive moment." Cartier-Bresson's work, along with that of other famous street photographers like Robert Doisneau and Walker Evans, solidified urban photography as a respected and evocative art form.

More contemporary street photographers include Martin Parr and Stephen Shore. Both artists capture the banal ordinary in the every day in a diaristic style. Their images are impactful because of their ability to tell the story of the moment and create something relatable. 

Looking to find out more about street photography? Check out our street photography course here.

Street photography equipment

When it comes to street photography, you can start by using a standard lens. This lens has a focal length of 50mm on a full-frame camera, 31mm on a crop sensor, and 25mm on a Micro 4:3 camera.

For more info on focal lengths on different cameras, click here.

Using this focal length gives you an ‘as your eye sees’ look, which means it gives you the most realistic view of what is actually there.

A prime lens can also be handy when doing street photography as this limitation forces you to be creative. A prime lens certainly does that as it forces you to get close and think about framing things better in a shot. This is because you can't zoom in or out very quickly and have limited options for cropping in when you’re editing.

As Robert Capa said, “If your photos are not good enough, you're not close enough“. Using a prime lens for street photography forces you to get in there and get the shot.

Best camera settings for street photography

As you can imagine there is no one specific camera setting that will suit all street photography but there are settings that will create your style. Try starting with shooting at an aperture of f/8 or above because it gives you a longer depth of field meaning that if you miss the focus point it's not going to matter too much, but if you want a challenge you can shoot at f/2.8 and get a shallower depth of field.

When you shoot at f2.8, you have to get the focus point absolutely correct and it does risk losing the shot if your settings are off – but the overall effect is worth it!

When it comes to the rest of the settings, it depends on the light. If it's a really bright day you can put your camera onto aperture priority (A or AV mode), set it to f2.8, and know that the shutter speed will be quick enough to avoid camera shake and stop things from blurring.

If it's not a bright day (if it's cloudy or you're in a setting where there's not much light) then you can put it onto a fully manual, set the shutter speed to 1/125th of a second (this will avoid camera shake) and put the aperture on f2.8 again. Then put your ISO on auto to pick up the slack.

If the ISO goes high you might get a bit of noise, but when it comes to street photography, it's all about getting the shot. Just get that shot - if there's noise, there's noise. If you've missed the focus point a bit, you've missed the focus point a bit. Just try and get the shot - get the feeling of the place and show the story.

To learn how to use and control your camera settings, click here.

Street Portraits

Another reason to use f2.8 is because it’s great for street portraits. Street portraiture can be one of the most challenging subjects to tackle because not only do you have to get all of your settings right and your style right, but you’ve also got to interact with people.

The only advice I can give when it comes to this is to be yourself, be genuine - go up to people and tell them what you want to do and if they're good for a portrait then that's great, if they're not say thanks and walk away, don't worry about it.

The beauty of being at places like the Edinburgh Fringe Festival is that you have loads of performers. You have loads of people that love being in front of a camera. I think my favourite shot was this one that I took down at the Scottish Parliament of a young girl with a mask on her face.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

How to take great street photography

Tip 1: Consider the background

One of the most common mistakes in street photography is just focusing on the subject and neglecting the background. A distracting background can detract from the main subject of your photo. Before pressing the shutter, always assess the entire frame and ensure that the background complements rather than competes with your subject.

Backgrounds in street photography are important for context and storytelling, providing a setting that enhances the narrative. They ensure visual clarity and contribute to aesthetic appeal, creating a balanced and good-looking street photo.

Practical tips for considering the background:

• Use your depth of field to isolate subjects with a shallow background and experiment with angles and perspectives for complementary backgrounds.

• Look for clean and unobtrusive backgrounds that emphasise your subject.

• Incorporate elements like signs or people in the foreground to add interest and guide the viewer's eye.

• Be patient and wait for the right moment when the background harmonizes with your subject.

• Using creative framing with elements like doorways or windows for a natural frame creates a way to lead into the image and draw focus to your subject.

• Check for distractions in the background, adjusting your composition or waiting for the right moment to minimize them.

Tip 2: Interaction

Street photography often involves a connection between the photographer and the subject, even if it's just a fleeting moment. Don’t just be a passive observer; interact with the people you’re shooting and seek permission if necessary. This way, you’ll capture genuine emotions and expressions.

Human connection in street photography makes your photos more relatable. When you interact with your subject, it becomes a shared moment and far more genuine, adding life to your street photography. This also stresses the importance of respect and consent when making street photos. It’s important to keep in mind ethical and considerate street photography practices. Prioritize the dignity and privacy of individuals and avoid confrontation when you’re shooting.

Practical tips for interaction in street photography:

• Approach people with kindness when taking street photos and introduce yourself as ‘a photographer.’

• Ask for permission, especially when taking close-up pictures, using simple gestures or a quick chat.

• If you keep a friendly and open attitude, you’ll capture real moments between people.

Consider building rapport over time if you’re a frequent visitor to a community and always respect personal boundaries, and if someone declines, move on.

• You can also share your work with subjects as a thank you and to show your appreciation!

• By approaching your subjects with respect, empathy, and a genuine interest in their stories, you can create great street photography that resonates on a deeper level.

Tip 3: Follow composition rules

Want to go over the basics of composition?

Composition can either make it or break it when it comes to creating great street photography. Composition will tell a story, emphasise relationships between subjects, and create dynamics within an image, especially in lively urban environments. Attention to composition helps refine complex scenes into impactful images, giving beauty to the ordinary or mundane.

Simple composition tips in street photography:

• Utilize the Rule of Thirds for balanced placements and guide the viewer's eye with leading lines, adding depth to your scenes.

• Frame your main subject with elements like doorways or people to provide context and immersion in the environment.

• You can enhance your photograph by balancing the foreground and background in busy scenes.

• Look for symmetry or patterns or embrace negative space strategically for a more impactful street photo.

• Experiment with various perspectives and angles to infuse your street photography with compelling compositions.

Experiment with these ideas and you'll develop an intuitive sense of composition in your street photography. Find out more about the rules of composition in photography with our beginner’s course.

Tip 4: Master your camera settings

Mastering your camera settings is crucial in street photography. Fumbling with settings in that ‘blink and you miss it’ situation could mean a poorly exposed image or missing the shot altogether. Practice regularly, experiment with different settings, and become comfortable with your gear to ensure you can capture decisive moments swiftly.

Practical tips to level up your technical skills:

• Get familiar with your camera and its settings!

• Understand the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO—to expose correctly in every situation.

• Ditch auto mode and switch to a manual mode. This will enable you to have control in rapidly changing street photography conditions.

• Use spot or zone focusing – Learn how to focus properly here.

• Learn to adapt quickly, learning from mistakes after each shoot for continuous improvement.

Improve your technical ability in photography with our beginner’s course.

Tip 5: Making the most of your gear

While having a high-quality camera is beneficial, remember that the best camera is the one you have with you when creating great street photography. Don't let the lack of expensive equipment with all the bells and whistles hinder your creativity. In the beginning, it’s better to focus on developing your skills rather than constantly upgrading your gear.

Why gear shouldn't be the sole focus:

In great street photography, creativity surpasses equipment. While quality gear contributes to better images, the real magic lies in your vision and ability to capture the moment. Iconic street photos can be taken with basic gear, proving that understanding composition, lighting, and storytelling is the focus – photographer Stephen Shore is famous for having taken images from his “All the Meat You Can Eat” series on a Mickey Mouse camera! Basic equipment doesn't limit creativity; it makes you push boundaries by working with what you’ve got.

Looking to find out what kit you need as a beginner? Read our recommendations.

Tip 6: Stay patient

Street photography often requires patience to capture the perfect moment. Resist the urge to rush or force shots. Take your time, sometimes it’s best to stay in one place and wait for life to happen.

Embrace the idea of ‘The Decisive Moment’ and wait patiently for that time when everything in a scene aligns to create a compelling street photograph.

Remember to:

• Spend time observing the scene before lifting the camera. Take notice of the details, notice the interaction and understand the flow of the environment.

• Choose a focal point and try to anticipate potential moments that could unfold.

• Stay present and be ready to capture unexpected moments.

• Consider a prime lens with a fixed focal length. This limitation will make you think deliberately about your compositions and force you to physically move to find the right angles.

• Stay committed to your chosen spot and avoid switching locations too much.

Remember that patience is a skill that develops over time. Learn from each time you go out and you’ll create some great street photography.

Tip 7: Enhance your photos with post-processing

Once you’ve captured the photo, it doesn’t stop there. Post-processing will enhance visual appeal by adjusting contrast, brightness, and colour saturation. You can emphasize the mood of a street scene through techniques like desaturation for a vintage look or increased vibrancy for a lively atmosphere.

Considerations:

• Neglecting this step can limit the potential of your images. Learn basic editing techniques to enhance your photos without overdoing it, maintaining the authenticity of the street scene.

• Learn editing tools in software like Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop, understanding adjustments to exposure, contrast, highlights, and shadows.

• Avoid excessive manipulation, keep the authenticity of the scene!

• Develop a consistent post-processing style that complements your street photography vision. You can also create a preset or action to speed up your process!

• Use cropping carefully to enhance composition without compromising image quality.

• Experiment with black-and-white editing, it usually works well to emphasize contrasts and textures.

Learn Photoshop here
Learn Lightroom here

Tip 8: Be confident and respectful

Fear of confrontation can hold street photographers back from capturing powerful moments. While it's essential to respect people's privacy, don't let the fear of being questioned prevent you from pursuing your passion. Develop a respectful and confident approach when shooting in public spaces.

While street photography is generally legal in most countries, it's crucial to adhere to ethical guidelines:

• Respect people's privacy and dignity, and if a person requests not to be photographed, don’t photograph them.

• Avoid capturing images that may be considered harassment or invasion of privacy.

• Always be aware of local laws and regulations, as they can vary, and seek legal advice if you have specific concerns or questions.

Tip 9: Play with light and shadows

Light is everything in photography, and some of the best street photos show this. Experiment with different times of day, shadows, and low light to add depth and mood to your images.

Practical tips for leveraging light and shadow:

• Understand natural light. Do you know about colour temperature, hard and soft light, etc? If not, click here.

• Experiment with different times of day, for varied lighting effects.

• Use shadows to enhance your composition.

• Use reflections on surfaces for dynamic compositions in urban environments.

• Utilize artificial light sources at night for unique effects.

• Create silhouettes against bright backgrounds.

• When editing, selectively enhancing light and shadow will emphasize areas and create specific moods.

Tip 10: Be original

While it's natural to draw inspiration from other photographers, try to avoid copying their style. Develop your unique style and perspective. Capture scenes that resonate with you personally and let your passion and individuality shine through and you’ll create great street photography.

Practical tips to foster originality:

• Experiment with styles to discover your own authentic approach.

• Tell your unique stories through street photography, consider the narratives and emotions you want to convey.

• Focus on personal projects. Delve deeper into specific themes important to you. This will help you develop a distinct body of work.

• Take risks. If you’re in your comfort zone you’re in the wrong place.

• Develop a consistent visual language with recurring themes, compositions, or editing styles.

• Be patient in finding your voice. Understand that it's a gradual process involving exploration, experimentation, and making plenty of mistakes, Cartier Bresson famously once said, “Your first 10,000 photos are your worst.”

Some more examples of street photography

Conclusion:

By avoiding common mistakes and taking on these tips to make great street photography, aspiring street photographers can enhance their skills and create compelling and authentic images that truly capture the streets. Remember, each mistake is an opportunity to learn and grow as a photographer. Embrace the challenges, stay curious, and keep refining your craft to become a better street photographer.

Happy snapping!

Want to learn street photography, check out our course here.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you liked this blog on avoiding classic mistakes in Street Photography. If you did please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

In this tutorial, we’ll explore how to photograph flowers as fine art still life subjects. Using a simple lightbox setup, you’ll learn how to shape light, balance composition, and create timeless images inspired by the still life paintings of the Old Masters. From setting up your shot to controlling the mood through lighting, this guide will help you turn everyday flowers into beautifully composed pieces of photographic art.

Essential Equipment for Still Life Flower Photography

Still life flower photography doesn’t require a studio full of expensive kit — just a few key tools that help you control light, background, and focus. Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

1. Camera and Lens - Any DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual settings will do, as long as you can control aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

A standard lens (50mm Full frame or 35mm Crop sensor) is ideal for balanced compositions that include both the flower and the vase. While macro lenses are fantastic for close-up flower photography, a standard lens gives you more breathing space for still life setups.

Tip: Use a tripod and lower your ISO for maximum sharpness. Still life scenes give you the luxury of time — take advantage of it!

Full frame or crop sensor? Camera Sensor Size Comparison – Which one is right for you?

2. Tripod - A sturdy tripod is essential. You’ll be working with careful lighting and fine focus, so camera stability is key — especially for longer exposures or when using timer shots to position light manually.

The Best Camera Tripod – Complete Buyers Guide

3. Light Source - Good lighting is what turns an ordinary setup into something magical. You can use:

• A lightbox (perfect for small arrangements)

• A continuous LED panel

• Or simply natural window light if you prefer a softer, classic look

You can even add a torch or reflector to shape light direction and depth.

Tip: Experiment with where your light comes from — side lighting creates drama, top lighting feels softer and more traditional.

4. Backgrounds and Surfaces - Keep things simple. A piece of neutral-coloured card (grey, beige, or black) works brilliantly as a background.

For your surface, try textured card, wooden boards, or even fabric — anything that complements your subject without distracting from it.

5. Props and Subjects - A few small vases, ceramic jugs, or glass bottles are great for variety. Start with one or two flowers per shot — tulips, roses, and magnolias work beautifully for their shape and form.

Remember, still life photography is all about balance, so spend time arranging your elements before you shoot.

Setting the Scene: Building a Still Life

For this setup, we’re using a lightbox to control both the light and background. Still life photography often features classic objects like flowers, vases, books, and fruit — arranged with care to evoke the look of traditional paintings. The goal is to move from documenting an object to creating an image that feels like art.

Here, a 55mm lens replaces the macro lens usually used for close-up flower shots. This allows you to step back, capturing not just the flower but also the vase and table it rests on. The result is a more balanced, composed image ready for artistic editing later.

Setting Up Your Composition

Start by setting a neutral background, such as grey card. This keeps the setup simple and ensures you can easily add textures in post-production. Then, take time to carefully balance your composition — the relationship between the flower, vase, and negative space matters.

In this setup, a double-headed flower was arranged to form an inverted triangle, a classic compositional shape that gives the image structure and visual strength. Longer stems can look awkward in smaller vases, so trim and adjust until the arrangement feels proportionate.

Tip: Before shooting, sketch or visualise your composition. Thinking about balance and shape will help your still life feel intentional rather than improvised.

If you enjoy arranging objects and working with composition, try our Flat Lay Photography Tutorial

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Mastering the Lighting

Lighting is the defining element of any still life. For this shoot, the lightbox was rotated 90°, so the built-in top light now came from the side — perfect for directional light that gives form and depth.

Here’s the lighting setup:

• Main light: Lightbox panel from the left

• Fill light: An LED panel placed on the opposite side to soften shadows

• Accent light: A torch added from the side during a 10-second exposure for subtle highlights

Settings: 1/125 sec, f/8, ISO 400

After balancing the lighting temperature and reducing the LED’s warmth, the flower appeared naturally illuminated without harsh contrast.

Tip: Don’t rely on just one light source. Experiment with handheld lights, reflectors, or torches to sculpt your subject.

The lighting and setup techniques used here are also perfect for product photography — check out our Product Photography Tutorial for more tips.

Refining the Details

Attention to detail can make or break your still life.

• Hide imperfections

• Trim any dead leaves

• Fine tune the LED light temperature for natural colour balance

Multiple shots were taken at different apertures (f/8–f/11) to ensure sharp focus throughout the frame. These small steps ensure that when you move into editing, you start with the cleanest, most balanced image possible.

Once you’ve captured your still life shots, you can enhance textures and tones using post processing techniques.

Download this Raw file and learn how to create this exact edit in our Flower Photography Course.

Smaller Setup with Overhead Light

Now you have mastered the first setup, it’s time to experiment. The next composition uses a tiny pottery vase with a magnolia flower, this time lit from above instead of the side. This produces a more classic, softly lit feel.

Camera settings for this setup:

• Aperture: f/7–f/10

• Shutter speed: 1/160–1/250 sec

• ISO: 400

The same grey background was used to maintain consistency, with lighting softened for a calm, delicate mood. Even minor distractions — like a small beetle on a petal — were considered and either removed or planned for editing later.

Wrapping Up: Experiment and Refine

Once your still life is set up, don’t stop at one shot. Try different flowers, swap vases, and explore new lighting angles. The beauty of still life photography lies in its flexibility — you control every element of the frame.

When you find a composition that works, experiment with post-processing. Add textures, convert to black and white, or enhance tones for a painterly finish.

Check out our new course Flower Photography Course coming soon

Challenge: Create your own still life flower photo at home. Focus on balance, subtle lighting, and creative editing — and tag us on social media with your results!

Conclusion

Still life flower photography is one of the most rewarding ways to develop your eye for detail and composition. It slows you down and encourages you to think about every aspect of the image — from how the petals curve to how light falls across the vase. By experimenting with lighting direction, aperture, and arrangement, you’ll soon start to see how subtle changes can transform a simple setup into something extraordinary.

Whether you’re shooting in a lightbox or by a window, the goal is the same: to create images that feel timeless and intentional. Don’t be afraid to play with textures, try new lighting angles, or edit your shots with a fine-art finish. The more you explore, the more you’ll refine your creative voice.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you liked this tutorial on Still Life Flower Photography. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

So, what happens when you’re stuck taking photos in the middle of the day with blinding sun and harsh light? Can you still take great photos? Absolutely — if you know a few key techniques.

This guide walks you through how to turn bright sun from a problem into an asset, using a real shoot in London as an example.

Work with What You Have

On this particular shoot, I was in London around 4–5 p.m. in the middle of summer. I couldn’t wait for golden hour. I had to get back to prepare for a training course I was running the next morning. The light I had to work with was harsh and the sun was high so it wasn’t perfect, but it was workable.

The trick: use the conditions creatively rather than fighting them. It’s a mindset shift every photographer should practice. When you can’t control the light, control how you respond to it.

Want to learn how to control every aspect of your photography properly? Click here to check out our beginner’s photography course

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Tip 1 - Use a 10-Stop ND Filter

One of the simplest and most effective tools for handling bright, midday sun is a 10-stop neutral density (ND) filter. A 10-stop neutral density filter works like sunglasses for your camera. It cuts down the light entering your camera so you can use longer exposure times to:

• blur moving clouds.

• Smooth out water for a sleek, glass-like effect.

Even in bright sun, combining a small aperture (f/16), low ISO (50), and the 10-stop filter gave me 30-second exposures. This added atmosphere and interest that you simply can’t get from a straight snapshot.

Learn more about ND Filters here: ND Filters – In Depth Guide For Beginners

The beauty of this technique is that it gives interest to the picture. You are not used to seeing streaking clouds in the sky or water looking smooth as glass. Those features stand out in an image and draw attention from the viewer.

If you want to learn about Long Exposure Photography in depth, click here.

Tip 2 - Think in Black & White

When the midday sun is blazing, colours can quickly become your enemy. Strong light has a way of washing out subtle tones, oversaturating certain hues, and casting unwanted colour tints into your scene.

This is exactly where black and white photography becomes your best friend. By stripping away colour completely, you’re no longer battling white balance or washed-out skies. Instead, you can focus on what midday light does give you in abundance: contrast, shape, and texture.

In black and white:

• Harsh shadows become a design element, shadows start carving dramatic lines across the frame.

• Bright highlights pop with intensity, giving the image a sense of sharpness and clarity.

• Textures — whether it’s rippling water, weathered stone, or steel architecture — take on a tactile quality that colour sometimes hides.

The trick is to shoot with black and white in mind from the start. Pay attention to tonal contrast as well as the subject. Ask yourself: where’s my brightest point? Where’s my deepest shadow? Where can I find contrast in this scene? Can I use that to lead the viewer’s eye?

When you stop thinking about the colours you’ve lost and start seeing the shapes you’ve gained, bright midday light goes from frustrating to inspiring.

Master Black and White Photography today

Tip 3 - Composition is King!

Technical tricks like ND filters and black-and-white conversion are powerful, but they can’t save a poorly composed image. Composition is what turns a technically correct photograph into one that grabs the viewer’s attention and holds it.

When shooting in harsh midday light, composition becomes even more important because you can’t rely on soft light or rich colours to carry the mood. You must make the structure of the image do the heavy lifting.

On my London shoot, I focused on a few key compositional strategies:

• Strong diagonals — The Millennium Bridge provided a perfect, sweeping diagonal that sliced through the frame and naturally led the eye toward the Tate Modern in the background.

• Foreground interest — Weathered wooden posts along the riverbank acted as anchors in the scene, giving depth and a sense of place before the eye travelled further into the shot.

• Balanced elements — I aligned the Shard, so it sat neatly beneath the bridge’s arc while the Tate Modern tower played balance to this on the opposite side of the frame. This gave visual stability to an otherwise busy scene.

• Use of shadows — Harsh sunlight created a bold, geometric shadow shape on the Thames. Instead of avoiding the harsh light, I waited for the right moment to capture this shadow and added it as a compositional element.

By being intentional with composition, you take control of how the viewer eye moves through your image. You’re essentially directing their gaze — where to start, where to pause, and where to end.

What is Composition in Photography? Learn more here

Tip 4 - Edit to Enhance

Clearly editing plays a big part in any photography and that is the same here. With pictures like this it’s about putting balance into the exposure of the image and enhancing that contrast you purposely included during your picture taking. I’m doing my edits in Adobe Lightroom Classic but you can adapt these skills into any program.

Here is my workflow for harsh light:

1. Convert to black and white straight away

• The first step is to remove colour distractions and focus purely on tonal values. Harsh sunlight often creates high contrast and strong shadows that work beautifully in monochrome.

• Converting early lets me see where the light and shadow interact, which guides all subsequent adjustments.

2. Start with basic pane adjustments

• Exposure: Slightly adjust to balance the midtones without losing highlights.

• Highlights: Pull down to recover detail in bright areas like reflective surfaces or the sky.

• Shadows: Open them just enough to reveal texture in dark areas, such as under bridges or alleyways.

• Whites & Blacks: Fine-tune the extremes to ensure the image retains depth without clipping.

3. Add an S-curve for punchy contrast

• I apply a subtle S-curve in the Tone Curve panel. This deepens shadows while boosting highlights, giving the image dimension and a sense of three-dimensionality. It’s particularly effective for architectural shots where structural lines need to pop.

Learn more about using curves here.

4. Use the Black & White Mixer panel

• The Black & White Mixer lets you adjust the luminance of individual colours. For instance, increasing the blue channel darkens the sky, creating drama and separating it from the clouds.

• Similarly, adjusting reds or yellows can subtly emphasize or de-emphasize buildings, streets, or water reflections.

5. Apply subtle vignetting

• Adding a soft vignette draws the viewer’s eye toward the centre of the frame.

• I keep it subtle — just enough to focus attention without making the edges feel artificially dark.

6. Mask selectively

• Target specific areas using, linear, radial, brush and object select masks. For example here I brighten the underside of the bridge, increase texture and lightened the tone on building façades.

• Masking allows localized adjustments that help balance the exposure of the scene. Check out our Masking in Lightroom Tutorial here.

Masking can transform a flat shot into something dynamic and balanced.

Master Lightroom with our dedicated course.

Key Takeaways for Photography in Harsh Sun

• Use a 10-stop ND filter for creative motion effects.

• Embrace black and white to work with contrast instead of fighting it.

• Look for shadows, contrast and lines to add visual drama.

• Composition is key — foreground interest, leading lines, and balance are essential.

• Edit with purpose — enhance strengths, mask weaknesses.

FAQ – Photographing in Bright Sun | Harsh Lighting Photography

What is harsh light in photography?

In harsh lighting photography, harsh light refers to strong, direct light that creates deep shadows, high contrast, and bright highlights. It typically occurs when the sun is high in the sky, such as around midday.

Harsh light produces hard edges between light and shadow, which can make details difficult to capture and often creates unflattering shadows in portraits, especially under the eyes and nose.

What does "harsh light" mean?

"Harsh light" describes light that is intense and undiffused, resulting in strong contrast and sharply defined shadows in a photograph. In harsh lighting photography, this type of light often comes from direct sunlight or a small, powerful light source without diffusion.

While harsh light can be challenging to work with, photographers sometimes use it creatively to produce dramatic shadows, bold textures, and high-contrast images.

What makes photographing in bright sunlight difficult?

Bright sunlight creates hard light, which produces strong contrast, deep shadows, and blown-out highlights. This makes it harder to balance exposure and capture detail across the entire scene.

What are the best camera settings for photographing in bright sun?

A common starting point is the Sunny 16 rule, which suggests using f/16 aperture, ISO 100, and a shutter speed around 1/100–1/125 sec on a bright day. Adjust shutter speed or aperture from there depending on the scene and desired depth of field.

What lens filters are recommended for harsh lighting photography?

When shooting in harsh lighting conditions, a neutral density (ND) filter can help control exposure by reducing the amount of light entering the lens. This allows photographers to use wider apertures or slower shutter speeds without overexposing the image.

For example, a NiSi 10-stop ND filter is a popular choice for harsh lighting photography because it dramatically reduces light, making it possible to capture long exposures in bright sunlight, smooth moving water, or blur clouds during the middle of the day.

ND filters are especially useful for landscape photography, seascapes, and creative long-exposure shots taken in strong sunlight.

How do you avoid harsh shadows when shooting outdoors?

You can reduce harsh shadows by:

• Moving your subject into open shade

• Using a diffuser to soften the light

• Shooting when the sun is lower in the sky

• Using a reflector to fill in shadow areas

How can you reduce glare in photos taken in bright sunlight?

To minimise glare and reflections:

• Use a polarising filter

• Change your shooting angle

• Use a lens hood

• Avoid shooting directly into strong reflective surfaces

These techniques help improve contrast and colour in bright conditions.

What is the best time of day to photograph in bright sun?

The best times are usually early morning or late afternoon, when the sun is lower and produces softer, warmer light. Midday sun tends to be harsher and creates stronger shadows.

Should you shoot in the sun or the shade?

Both can work. Shooting in shade produces softer light, which is flattering for portraits. Shooting in direct sun can create dramatic contrast and strong shapes if used creatively.

How do you prevent overexposed highlights in bright sunlight?

To prevent blown highlights:

• Lower your ISO

• Use a smaller aperture (higher f-number)

• Increase your shutter speed

• Use exposure compensation or shoot in RAW to recover details later.

Can bright sunlight be used creatively in photography?

Yes. Hard sunlight can produce bold contrast, dramatic shadows, silhouettes, and interesting textures. When used intentionally, it can add depth and impact to images.

What accessories help when photographing in bright sunlight?

Useful tools include:

• Polarising filters (reduce glare)

• ND filters (control exposure)

• Diffusers (soften light)

• Reflectors (fill shadows)

These help control harsh lighting and improve overall image quality.

How do you photograph portraits in bright sunlight?

For better portraits in bright sun:

• Position your subject with the sun behind them

• Use a reflector or fill flash

• Move them into open shade

• Watch for strong shadows under the eyes and nose.

Conclusion

Bright midday sun is challenging, but with the right skills, you can produce images worthy of your portfolio.

So next time you’re in the middle of the day with no golden hour in sight — don’t pack up your gear. Use the light, shape your composition, and let your editing polish the rest.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial about creating great photos in harsh light. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

In this tutorial, we’ll use Photoshop to show you how to fix blown out highlights in just 5 steps. Simple watch the video or follow the instructions below.

Fix blown out highlights in with this Photoshop tutorial video often harsh whites and add a natural, warm tone back into your image.

Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 1:

Sample the fill colour

Essentially you need to cover the highlights with a colour that is natural to the scene. In our example it is a sunset, but the same techniques apply to skin tones, buildings or any highlights that are blown out in your photograph.

Sample a colour from the sunset:

• Select the Brush Tool (B on your keyboard).

• Hold down the Alt key (Option on Mac) to temporarily activate the Eyedropper Tool.

• Whilst holding the Alt/Option key, hover over a warm part of the sunset and click to sample a colour. This will now become your foreground colour.

This step ensures that any colour you apply later matches the light source perfectly.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 2:

Add a Solid Colour Adjustment Layer

• In the Layers Panel, click the Adjustment Layer icon (circled red), and choose ‘Solid colour’.

• Since you already sampled the sun’s colour, it should pre-fill the layer with that colour. Click OK.

• Your image will now be covered completely with this colour. Don’t panic — this is supposed to happen!

Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 3:

Reduce opacity of the colour fill layer

• In the Layers Panel, reduce the opacity of your solid colour layer to around 15% to 20%.

Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 4:

Change the Blend Mode of the colour fill layer

This is where the magic happens:

• With your colour fill layer still selected, change its Blend Mode from Normal to:

• Darken – to gently tint only the brighter areas.

• Multiply – for a stronger, richer effect.

Toggle between these to see which one works best for your photo.

Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 5:

Adjust and refine to suit

This is the time to perfect the effect.

Adjust the opacity of the colour fill layer to suit.

Change the blend modes to suit – Darken, Multiply and Soft Light tend to work well in cover blown out highlights in a subtle way.

Use the mask of the colour fill layer to mask the effect off areas you don’t want it to affect.

Learn more about layer masking here.

Before & After

Using this quick technique creates a natural glow and brings back detail without needing advanced techniques or heavy retouching.

Conclusion

Blown-out highlights don’t have to ruin your photography. With this simple Photoshop technique you can quickly bring warmth and balance back into your image.

It’s a fast, non-destructive workflow that works for landscapes, portraits, and any photo where the highlights feel too harsh. Next time you’re editing a blown-out picture, give this method a try—you’ll be amazed at how much more natural and professional your photo will look.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial about how to fix blown out highlights in photoshop. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

Have you ever looked at a movie still or a beautiful photo and thought, “I wish my photos could look like that?” Well, you're not alone! Cinematic photography is all about capturing mood, atmosphere, and drama. It's what makes certain photos stand out and instantly grab your attention. And the best part? You don't need expensive equipment or advanced skills to start creating cinematic shots.

In this post, we’ll walk you through the basics of cinematic photography and show you how to use free Lightroom presets to make your photos pop with cinematic flair.

What is Cinematic Photography?

Cinematic photography draws inspiration from films, and its signature style is all about mood, lighting, and composition. The key elements that give photos a cinematic look include:

Lighting: Think soft, diffused light, dramatic shadows, and plenty of contrast. It's all about creating depth and atmosphere.

Colour Grading: Cinematic photos often feature muted tones, enhanced contrasts, and unique colour schemes like the popular "teal and orange" look.

Composition: Wide shots with leading lines, rule of thirds, and scenes that tell a story—just like a movie scene.

When done right, cinematic photography can turn an ordinary shot into something that feels like a scene from a movie. And the good news? You can start creating cinematic images right from your phone or camera with one click!

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

How Lightroom Presets Help You Achieve a Cinematic Look

Now, let's talk about Lightroom presets. If you're new to photography or just starting to edit your photos, Lightroom presets are your best friend. These are pre-made editing settings that can instantly give your photo a polished, professional look with just one click.

Why should beginners use Lightroom presets?

Consistency: Apply the same look to multiple photos with ease.

Efficiency: Saves time by automating colour grading and adjustments.

Learning tool: By seeing how different settings are applied, you can learn about photography editing techniques and develop your own style.

And the best part? We’re sharing a set of free cinematic Lightroom presets with you today! These presets will help you easily add cinematic tones and effects to your photos, so you can start creating those dramatic, film-like shots right away.

Want to master Lightroom? Check out the full course here.

Cinematic Lighting Tips for Beginners

Cinematic lighting is a huge part of what makes a photo feel like it’s straight out of a film. Here are some tips to help you master lighting for cinematic shots:

Shoot during the golden hour: The light just after sunrise or before sunset creates soft, warm tones that are perfect for cinematic photos.

Play with shadows and highlights: Don’t be afraid of shadows! Cinematic photos often have areas of deep darkness contrasted with bright, well-lit spots.

Use artificial light: Streetlights, lamps, or even fairy lights can create a moody atmosphere in your photos. Experiment with different light sources to find what works best.

Real-Life Example: Before and After

Let’s take a look at how the cinematic Lightroom preset can transform an image.

Before: A simple photo taken in an area with natural light, it’s bright, but it lacks drama.

After: Applying the preset adds a subtle orange tone, increases the contrast, and creates a more dramatic, filmic look. The shadows are deeper, and the overall feel of the image is much more cinematic. There’s also a little grain that gives the feel of 35mm cinema.

You can see the transformation instantly, and that’s the magic of Lightroom presets!

Bonus Tips for Cinematic Photography

Here are a few bonus tips to elevate your photos even more:

Play with depth of field: A wide aperture (low f-stop) can give your photos a dreamy, blurred background, making your subject stand out more.

Experiment with colour contrasts: Try the popular teal and orange look or play with complementary colour schemes to evoke different emotions.

Tell a story: Every cinematic photo tells a story. Whether it’s a quiet moment or a bold, dramatic scene, think about what emotion you want to convey through your images.

Conclusion

With just a few simple techniques, you can take your photos from ordinary to cinematic! And with the free Lightroom presets we’ve shared, you can quickly apply those professional editing looks without having to be a photo editing expert. Download the presets, experiment with your images, and have fun creating your own cinematic shots.

Don’t forget to share your photos with us! Tag us on social media to show off your new cinematic creations. We can’t wait to see what you come up with.

Happy shooting!

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this blog about choosing the best camera bag for you. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

Why Every Photographer Needs Their Own Website

As a photographer, you might wonder, “Do I really need my own website? Can’t I just use Instagram or Facebook?” Social media is great for getting your work out there, but having your own website gives you a level of professionalism, control, and flexibility that no social platform can match. Here’s why:

Total Creative Control

On your own website, you decide exactly how your work is displayed. No weird cropping, no distracting ads, and no algorithm deciding who sees your photos. You can build a portfolio that truly reflects your unique style and vision.

Professional Credibility

A website instantly boosts your credibility. It shows clients and collaborators that you take your craft seriously. It’s your digital business card—one that’s always available and easy to share. This is particularly poignant for those that intend to use their website as their digital portfolio – it’s a quick and convenient way to show off the work you’re most proud of!

Client Convenience

If you’re setting up your website to capture more photography clients, with a website, clients can easily browse your galleries, learn about your services, book sessions, and even purchase prints—all in one place. Features like client proofing and password-protected galleries make the whole process smooth and professional.

SEO and Discoverability

Having your own site means you can show up in Google searches, which is huge for attracting new clients. SEO, or Search Engine Optimisation, is how you can get your website to appear higher up in the search results. When using your website to its full potential, you’ll be able to optimise it to appear in the searches that are most likely to get your work seen by prospective clientele – search is still the most likely place people who want to buy a service or product will be looking. Unlike social media, where your posts get buried after a day or two, your website is always working for you.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Best Website Builder For Photographers – Deep Dive Analysis

There are lots of different ways to create your website, but if you’re not familiar with website creation, we’d suggest using a website builder to create your first one. These builders don’t tend to involve any specific skills like coding, and often let you integrate complex features like client galleries and online stores easily and will also have site templates for you start with when designing.

Let’s dive into the best website builders for photographers and find the perfect fit for your creative journey! We’re going to be looking at the following website builders and comparing them in terms of price, user experience, how beginner-friendly they are and what features they have that you’ll actually use as a photographer.

Squarespace: For Stunning Visuals

Pricing: From £12 monthly

Squarespace is known for its gorgeous, minimalist templates that make your photos the star of the show. It’s a favourite for commercial and fine art photographers who want a clean, professional look. Squarespace also offers solid e-commerce features, blogging tools, and appointment scheduling. When designing each page, you’re able to quickly switch to mobile view, so you know what your website visitors are going to see, no matter the device they use. Plus, now with the 7.1 fluidity engine, you have more freedom than ever with the look of your Squarespace website.

Pros:

·       Beautiful, modern templates optimised for imagery

·       Easy-to-use interface and quick setup

·       Great for selling prints or services online

·       Mobile-responsive designs

Cons:

·       Less customisation than Wix

·       Slightly higher price point

·       No free plan (but a free trial is available)

The School of Photography members can get 10% off Squarespace.

Wix: The All-Rounder

Pricing: From £9 monthly

Wix is a favourite among photographers for its flexibility, massive template library, and robust feature set. With over 800 templates—many designed specifically for photographers—you can create a site that truly reflects your style. Its drag-and-drop editor is super intuitive, giving you full control over your layout. Wix also offers built-in galleries, client proofing, printing, and even appointment booking for session scheduling.

Pros:

•            Huge selection of photography-focused templates

•            Drag-and-drop editing with lots of creative freedom

•            Client proofing and private albums

•            Built-in e-commerce and booking tools

•            Free plan available (with ads and Wix branding)

Cons:

•            Free/lower-tier plans have ads and Wix branding

•            The sheer volume of options can be overwhelming for beginners

•            Not the fastest platform if you upload lots of high-res images

Format: Built for Photographers

Pricing: From $12 monthly

Format is designed specifically for photographers and creatives. It offers sleek, minimalist templates, client proofing, and high-res image hosting. If you want a platform that “just works” for photography portfolios and client galleries, Format is a strong contender.

Pros:

·       Tailored features for photographers (client proofing, print sales)

·       Simple, clean templates

·       Easy setup and management

·       Affordable pricing, with a free trial

Cons:

·       Limited third-party integrations

• Fewer customisation options than Wix or Squarespace

Pixpa: All-in-One for Creatives

Pricing: From £6.05 monthly

Pixpa is another platform built with photographers in mind. It combines portfolio creation, e-commerce, and client proofing in one place. It’s affordable, easy to use, and offers enough customisation for most needs.

Pros:

·       Designed for photographers and artists

·       Integrated client proofing and e-commerce

·       Affordable pricing

·       Fast setup

Cons:

·       Less flexibility than Wix or WordPress

·       Smaller template library

The School of Photography members can also get 25% off their first year Pixpa subscription.

Client galleries

If you’re setting up your website with the intention of having client galleries, the next website builders would be a good thing for you to consider, as these have this feature built in, enabling your photography clients to buy their printed products directly from the website.

SmugMug & Zenfolio: For Selling and Client Galleries

Pricing:

Smugmug - From $30 monthly

Zenfolio - From £7 monthly

Both SmugMug and Zenfolio are tailored for photographers looking to sell prints, offer client galleries, and manage proofing. They’re especially popular with event and wedding photographers who need password-protected galleries and unlimited storage.

Pros:

·       Unlimited photo storage

·       Great for selling prints and digital downloads

·       Client gallery and proofing tools

Cons:

·       Less design flexibility than Wix or Squarespace

·       Templates can feel dated

·       More focused on business than creative control

The School of Photography members can also get 15% Smugmug website plans.

SITE123 & Webador: Simple and Fast

Pricing:

SITE123 - Free or $12.80 per month

Webador - Free or from £4.50 per month

If you just want to get something online quickly with minimal fuss, SITE123 and Webador are good options. They’re easy to use but don’t offer the same level of creative freedom or advanced features as the bigger platforms.

Pros:

·       Very easy to set up

·       Basic gallery and e-commerce features

·       Affordable

Cons:

·       Limited customisation

·       Not ideal for complex or highly branded sites

Quick Comparison Table

Conclusion

If you want maximum creative freedom and lots of features, Wix is hard to beat. For a visually stunning, easy-to-manage site, Squarespace is a top pick. If photography-specific tools like client proofing and high-res galleries are your priority, Format or Pixpa are worth a look. For selling prints and managing client galleries, SmugMug and Zenfolio are strong choices.

Whatever you choose, remember: your website is your digital storefront. Pick a builder that fits your workflow, showcases your work beautifully, and helps you grow your photography business.

NB: Above are some affiliate links and TSOP will receive a small percentage of some purchases made.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial about portrait retouching in Lightroom. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

NB: Below there are some affiliate links and TSOP will receive a small percentage of some purchases made.

Portrait retouching in lightroom tutorial video demonstrating how to do face retouching in adobe lightroom for beginners.

Retouching portraits in Lightroom

Although not a common practice, it is possible to retouch faces in Lightroom and utilise its AI features to expedite your workflow.

It is not as controlled as using Photoshop, and you will need a picture of someone with relatively good skin, but Lightroom does have a place in retouching, which we will explore in this lesson.

You can easily follow along with this tutorial using your own portraits via the instructions below or by downloading the in depth worksheets via the form above.

Portrait Photography Tips – Settings, Composition, Colour & Lighting

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Retouching Portraits in Lightroom Step 1 – Crop and Spot

In the Develop module, you’ll be able to crop, adjust and remove spots and blemishes from your image using the Basic Panel.

1.       Import the image into Lightroom.

2.       Crop to suit.

3.       Use the Remove Tool in Heal Mode to remove spots and blemishes. 

4.       Make adjustments such as white balance in the Basic Panel to suit.

Retouching Portraits in Lightroom Step 2 – Masking

Use People Masking to create a mask of the entire person, and create general adjustments to lift shadows and darken highlights.

1.       Open the Masking Panel.

2.       Select People > Person 1 > Tick ‘Entire Person’ > Click ‘Create Mask’.

3.       Rename mask ‘Entire Person’.

4. Adjust the mask parameters to suit your image.

Masking in Lightroom - This is AMAZING!!

Retouching Portraits in Lightroom Step 3 – Eyes & Teeth

Add a mask to the eyes and teeth and refine these details.

1.       In the Masking Panel, Select People > Person 1 > Tick ‘Eye Sclera’ and ‘Iris and Pupil’ > Click ‘Create Mask’.

2.       Rename mask to ‘Eyes’.

3.       Adjust mask parameters to suit.

4.       Repeat the process for the teeth.

Tip: If you need to add or remove parts from the mask, you can do so by selecting “add to mask” or “subtract from mask” and using the brush tool.

Retouching Portraits in Lightroom Step 4 – Colour Grading

Colour grade the image and make any refinements for a final image.

1.       Select the Colour Grading Panel.

2.       Make colour adjustments to suit.

3.       If needed, refine the image further by adjusting the masks as shown in the video.

Learn what else Lightroom can do for your photography here.

Conclusion

Retouching portraits in Lightroom is quick and easy, especially with Lightroom’s AI features! The only downsides to retouching portraits in Lightroom are that there’s less control than in Photoshop, and you need a portrait of someone with quite good skin to start with. But if you’re looking to edit quickly, face retouching in Lightroom is an easy and simple way to get the job done.

You’ve just mastered making your portraits stand out with Adobe Lightroom, but why stop here? If you’re eager to take your retouching even further, join our Yearly Membership today for exclusive access to our Portrait Retouching Course!

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial about portrait retouching in Lightroom. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

Core Genres of Photography

There are a few core genres of photography, and then the specialisms and techniques branch from there. As a beginner, here is where you’ll probably want to start in your photography exploration. Learn about the core genres and then specialise from there.

Landscape Photography

This genre of photography focuses on capturing the natural environment and outdoor scenes, often emphasizing the beauty, scale, and mood of the natural world. This type of photography typically shows the drama of landscapes, ranging from wide, sweeping vistas to intimate close-ups of natural details. The goal is often to give a sense of place, evoke emotion, or showcase the awe-inspiring features of the Earth’s landscapes. Common subjects include mountains, forests, deserts, oceans, lakes, and rural or wilderness areas.

Want to become a landscape photography pro? Check out our course with Tom Archer.

Portrait Photography

A genre of photography focused on capturing the likeness, personality, and mood of an individual or group. In layman’s terms, this genre of photography is all about photographing people. The subject of portrait photography is typically the focal point of the image, in order to portray them in a way that reveals something about their character, emotions, or identity. Portraits can be taken in various settings, from studio environments with controlled lighting to natural, environmental settings that reflect the subject’s personality or lifestyle. The composition, lighting, and perspective in portrait photography are carefully considered to highlight the subject's features and convey a specific narrative or emotion.

Want to know how to take stunning portraits? Check out our portrait-based courses – Guide to Studio Lighting Course – Headshot Photography – Fine Art Portraiture

Wildlife Photography

Wildlife photography focuses on capturing images of animals in their natural habitats. This type of photography aims to showcase the behaviour, diversity, and beauty of wildlife, often emphasizing the connection between animals and their environment. Wildlife photographers may work in remote locations to document a wide range of species. The goal of is often to raise awareness of conservation issues, highlight the intricacies of animal behaviour, and capture the spontaneous moments of creatures in the wild. It often requires patience, skill, and knowledge of both the animals being photographed and the environment in which they live.

Master this genre in our Wildlife Photography Course with Andy Rouse.

Street Photography

This is a genre of photography that focuses on capturing candid, spontaneous moments of everyday life in public spaces. It often reflects the human condition, urban environments, and social interactions. It is typically unposed and aims to document real-life scenes in a way that tells a story or offers a snapshot of a specific time and place. Street photographers often focus on the unpredictability of the streets, observing human behaviour and the dynamics of city life. The genre can range from capturing individual moments of solitude or joy to broader social or cultural themes, often with an emphasis on composition, light, and timing. Street photography is known for its emphasis on authenticity and the art of capturing life as it happens.

Learn more in our Street Photography Course with Mr Whisper.

Architectural Photography

A genre of photography that focuses on capturing images of buildings, structures, and interior spaces. The goal is to highlight the design, form and function of architecture. Architectural photographers may shoot both the exterior and interior of buildings, aiming to showcase the structure in its best light—literally and figuratively—while capturing its scale, proportions, and relationship to its surroundings. This type of photography requires a keen understanding of perspective, lighting, and composition to accurately represent the architecture while also creating visually compelling images. It is commonly used in real estate, commercial marketing, architectural portfolios, and design publications.

Learn more about Architectural Photography in our tutorial here.

Macro Photography

Macro photography involves capturing extreme close-up images of small subjects, often revealing intricate details that are not visible to the naked eye. This type of photography typically focuses on objects like insects, flowers, textures, and small everyday items, bringing out their fine details, patterns, and textures. In macro photography, the goal is to showcase the tiny world in a way that emphasizes fine details like the structure of a flower petal, the texture of an insect's wings, or the surface of a leaf. Macro photography often requires specialized equipment, such as macro lenses or extension tubes, to achieve the necessary magnification and depth of field.

Master Macro Photography with Oliver Wright.

Astrophotography

This genre of photography that focuses on capturing images of celestial objects and phenomena, such as stars, planets, the moon, galaxies, nebulae, and other astronomical events. This type of photography often requires long exposure times, specialized equipment (such as telescopes, wide-angle lenses, and tracking mounts), and careful planning to capture the faint light from distant objects in the night sky. Astrophotographers often aim to reveal the beauty and detail of the cosmos, whether it’s the Milky Way stretching across a dark landscape or close-up images of planetary surfaces. The genre of photography also includes capturing time-lapse sequences of celestial movements, such as star trails or the passing of the International Space Station. Astrophotography can be both a scientific pursuit and an artistic endeavour, as it combines technical skill with an appreciation for the vastness and beauty of the universe.

Learn how to photograph the universe in our Astrophotography Course with Ben Bush.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of members work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Specialised Genres

Environmental dance photography involves shooting dancers on location outside of the traditional setting of a studio or stage. This kind of dance photography works well to create a dynamic contrast between the dancer’s form and the background. This style generally utilises natural lighting and is about pushing forward a relationship between the dancer and the space – juxtaposing them or harmonising them with their surroundings within the frame. Your settings and kit can vary depending on your location and shooting conditions but try starting off with standard zoom lens, use it's a widest aperture this is generally around as f/4, and a fast shutter speed like 1/250th or above second. Take test pictures and view them on the back of your screen to see if the movement is frozen. If it’s not, then increase your shutter speed to 1/500th, 1/1000th or above.

Food Photography

Food photography is a genre focused on capturing visually appealing images of food, often for commercial purposes like advertisements, cookbooks, and menus. It emphasizes the textures, colours, and details of dishes, with careful attention to lighting, composition, and styling to make the food look as appetizing as possible.

Fashion Photography

Fashion photography centres on the portrayal of clothing and accessories, often featuring models in stylized settings. It typically aims to highlight the design and aesthetics of fashion, and can be used in magazines, advertisements, online catalogues, or runway shows. Fashion photographers often work closely with stylists, makeup artists, and designers to create visually striking and trend-setting images.

Sports Photography

Sports photography captures the action, energy, and emotion of athletic events. It often involves fast-moving subjects, requiring photographers to have quick reflexes, knowledge of the sport, and specialized equipment (such as telephoto lenses) to freeze the action. The goal is to convey the intensity, skill, and drama of the moment, whether it’s an athlete in motion or the reactions of fans.

Travel Photography

Travel photography focuses on capturing the essence of different places, cultures, and people around the world. It includes landscapes, architecture, street scenes, and portraits of locals, aiming to tell a visual story about a destination. This genre often conveys a sense of adventure, exploration, and discovery, and is commonly used in travel magazines, blogs, and tourism marketing.

Learn more about getting started in travel photography here.

Abstract Photography

Abstract photography focuses on shapes, colours, patterns, and textures rather than representing realistic or recognizable subjects. The goal is to create images that evoke emotion, curiosity, or thought through non-literal depictions of the world. This genre often challenges traditional ideas of composition and can be both conceptual and experimental.

Learn more about Abstract Photography in our blog.

Event Photography

Event photography involves capturing moments from various events, such as weddings, parties, corporate gatherings, and concerts. The goal is to document the atmosphere, key moments, and emotions of the event in a way that tells a story, whether it’s the candid interactions of guests or the formal highlights of the event.

Documentary Photography

Documentary photography is a genre that captures real-life events, situations, or social issues in a truthful and unbiased manner. It often seeks to tell a story, raise awareness, or convey a message about a subject or community. Documentary photographers aim to be observers, capturing moments without interference or manipulation.

The British Boot Sale Exhibition -Marc Newton

Aerial Photography

Aerial photography involves capturing images from a high vantage point, typically from an aircraft, drone, or elevated platform. It provides a bird’s-eye view of landscapes, buildings, and events, and is often used for surveying, mapping, real estate, and artistic purposes. Aerial shots offer unique perspectives that are not possible from the ground level.

Photojournalism

Photojournalism is a form of journalism that uses photography to tell news stories. It involves capturing images of current events, conflicts, social issues, and human-interest stories to inform and engage the public. Photojournalists work to document events as they unfold, often focusing on truth, accuracy, and ethical standards. These are the kinds of images you would typically see in newspapers or in news bulletins.

Product Photography

Product photography focuses on showcasing products in the most visually appealing way for commercial purposes, such as in catalogues, advertisements, or online stores. It highlights the product’s features, textures, and details with a clean, clear, and attractive aesthetic. Proper lighting, composition, and often a neutral background are crucial for emphasizing the product itself.

Learn how to do product photography at home!

Glamour Photography

Glamour photography is focused on portraying the subject—often a model—in a stylized, idealized, or seductive way. It emphasizes beauty, sensuality, and elegance, and often includes soft lighting, makeup, and poses that enhance the subject’s features. This genre can overlap with fashion and portrait photography but leans more toward creating a fantasy-like or aspirational image.

Fine Art Photography

Fine art photography is created primarily for artistic expression and aesthetic value rather than commercial or documentary purposes. It is often conceptual, exploring personal vision, emotions, or philosophical themes. Fine art photographers may produce limited-edition prints and exhibit their work in galleries, and their images are intended to be appreciated as art. Often, Fine Art Photographers will push the boundaries of typical genre conventions in order to communicate their message.

Fine art Landscape Course with Trudy Kepke

Fine Art Family Portraits with Sujata Setia

Conceptual Photography

Conceptual photography is a genre where the photographer creates images that convey specific ideas, concepts, or messages. These images are often staged and can be symbolic or abstract in nature. The photographer typically uses props, settings, or visual metaphors to communicate a deeper meaning or narrative beyond the surface of the image.

Conceptual Photography Explained: Examples, Tips and an Idea Generator!

Surreal Photography

Surreal photography explores dreamlike or fantastical imagery, often combining unexpected elements to create visually intriguing or bizarre scenes. This genre is influenced by the surrealist art movement and aims to create a sense of wonder, surprise, or mystery by manipulating reality, often with digital editing or creative in-camera techniques. Surreal photography doesn’t always have to be entirely fantastical in nature, it can simply incorporate the idea of ‘The Uncanny’ and still fit into this genre of photography.

Forest Photography

Forest photography focuses on capturing the beauty, tranquillity, and mystery of forested landscapes. It can include wide shots of dense woodlands, intimate close-ups of plants, trees, or wildlife, and shots that evoke the atmosphere of a forest environment. This genre often uses light, shadows, and natural elements to create a connection to nature.

Start capturing stunning forest photography in our Forest Photography Course

Cinematic photography

Cinematic photography involves creating images that evoke the look, mood, and storytelling qualities of cinema. It often uses dramatic lighting, wide compositions, and a focus on emotion or narrative to create a sense of depth and atmosphere, similar to stills taken from a film. This style is popular in both portraiture and landscape photography where cinematic qualities are desired.

Niche Specialties

It is possible to niche down even further into photography genres. Imagine portrait photography, but instead of just taking people's photos, you specialize in only photographing musicians, or only capturing kids, or only shooting actors. These are photography sub-categories that let photographers become experts in one tiny, specific area. Sometimes these niches even overlap, creating unique combinations.

Underwater Photography

Underwater photography captures images beneath the surface of water, often in oceans, lakes, or pools. It requires specialized equipment such as waterproof cameras, housing, and lighting to overcome the challenges of low light and visibility underwater. This genre can focus on marine life, landscapes, or underwater portraits.

Pet Photography

Pet photography specializes in capturing images of pets, typically dogs, cats, and other animals. The focus is on showcasing their personality, emotions, and unique characteristics, often in playful or posed settings. Pet photographers work with animals to create memorable portraits and candid moments.

Still Life Photography

Still life photography involves capturing inanimate objects arranged thoughtfully to convey visual harmony, texture, and detail. Common subjects include flowers, food, books, or everyday objects, often styled in a way that highlights their form, light, and texture. This genre emphasizes composition and lighting.

Infrared Photography

Infrared photography captures images using infrared light, which is outside the visible spectrum. This technique creates surreal and dramatic effects, turning greenery into bright white or pink, skies into dark tones, and otherworldly appearances in landscapes or portraits. Special cameras or filters are required for this type of photography.

Long Exposure Photography

Long exposure photography involves using a slow shutter speed to capture a scene over an extended period. It can create dramatic effects, such as smoothing out flowing water, blurring movement, or capturing star trails in the night sky. This technique often requires a tripod to prevent camera shake.

Master Long Exposure Photography in our in depth course.

High-Speed Photography

High-speed photography captures fast-moving subjects or events, often using a very short shutter speed or specialized equipment like flash strobes to freeze motion. It's used to document moments that happen too quickly for the naked eye, such as a water droplet splashing or a balloon popping.

Tilt-Shift Photography

Tilt-shift photography uses special lenses that allow for selective focus, creating a miniature or "toy" effect. It can make real-world scenes, like cityscapes or buildings, appear as if they are miniature models. This technique can also be used for controlling depth of field in creative ways.

Urban Exploration Photography

Urban exploration photography (often called ‘UrbEx’) focuses on capturing abandoned or forgotten structures, such as old factories, hospitals, or schools. It explores themes of decay, history, and the passage of time, often in dramatic and atmospheric settings.

Astrophotography (Deep Space)

Deep space astrophotography is the capture of distant celestial objects beyond our solar system, such as galaxies, nebulae, and star clusters. It typically involves long exposures and precise tracking to capture the faint light from objects millions or billions of light years away.

Learn how to capture deep space objects in our Astrophotography Course with Ben Bush.

Stereoscopic Photography

Stereoscopic photography creates a 3D effect by taking two slightly offset images, which can be viewed with special equipment, such as 3D glasses or a stereoscope, to create depth perception. This technique mimics how human eyes perceive depth and is used for 3D visualizations.

Kirlian Photography

Kirlian photography captures the "aura" or energy fields around living beings or objects by photographing them with high-voltage electrical discharge. The resulting images often appear as glowing or haloed outlines. It's more associated with pseudoscience than traditional photography.

Equine Photography

Equine photography focuses on capturing horses, whether for portraits, action shots, or showing off their beauty and grace. This genre is often used in equestrian sports, horse shows, or to document the connection between riders and their horses.

Automotive Photography

Automotive photography specializes in capturing cars and other vehicles in visually striking ways. It focuses on showcasing the design, detail, and motion of the vehicle, often in dynamic environments like race tracks, streets, or scenic backdrops.

Scientific Photography

Scientific photography is used to capture images for research, education, and analysis. This can include anything from microscopic photography of cells to documenting chemical reactions, environmental changes, or medical procedures. Rather than a creative art, the goal with this type of photography is to capture highly detailed, factual images to support scientific study.

Experimental Photography

Experimental photography explores creative, unconventional methods to produce unique or unexpected results. This could involve techniques like light painting, double exposures, or using alternative processes like film manipulation, pinhole cameras, or digital effects.

Underwater Fashion Photography

Underwater fashion photography merges the high-fashion genre with underwater settings. Models wear designer clothes while submerged in water, creating ethereal and surreal images that combine beauty, movement, and fluid dynamics. The genre challenges lighting, composition, and environmental factors

Boudoir Photography

Boudoir photography captures intimate, sensual, or romantic images of subjects, often in a bedroom or private setting. The focus is on showcasing the subject's personality and beauty in a tasteful and empowering way, typically for personal keepsakes or as gifts.

Newborn Photography

Newborn photography specializes in capturing the delicate, innocent moments of a newborn baby, often in the first few weeks of life. The emphasis is on creating soft, gentle images that convey warmth, love, and the beauty of the early days of life.

Learn how to do Newborn Photography at home.

Maternity Photography

Maternity photography focuses on capturing the beauty of pregnancy and the anticipation of a new life. The images often feature expectant mothers and may include intimate or creative poses, celebrating the changes in the body and the connection between mother and child.

Real Estate Photography

Real estate photography aims to showcase properties for sale or rent by highlighting key features of the home or commercial space. The goal is to present the property in the best light, with well-lit, wide-angle shots that emphasize space, design, and features.

Stock Photography

Stock photography involves creating images for licensing, which can be used by businesses, advertisers, or media outlets. These images are typically generic and cover a wide range of topics such as business, travel, lifestyle, and nature, intended to be used in various commercial contexts.

Fine Art Nude Photography

Fine art nude photography is an artistic form that captures the human body in a tasteful, elegant way, often exploring themes of form, light, and beauty. The focus is on the artistic and emotional expression of the nude body.

Landscape Astrophotography

Landscape astrophotography combines the beauty of the night sky with scenic landscapes. It often involves capturing starry skies, the Milky Way, or other celestial objects while incorporating natural features like mountains, lakes, or forests into the foreground.

Astrophotography with Ben Bush.

Bird Photography

Bird photography involves capturing images of birds, typically in the wild. It requires patience and skill to photograph birds in their natural habitats, and often focuses on their behaviour, flight patterns, or unique features. Photographers often use telephoto lenses for detailed shots.

Learn how to capture winged wonders in your own garden in our Wildlife Photography Course with Andy Rouse.

Concert Photography

Concert photography captures live musical performances, focusing on the energy, emotion, and action of the performers and the audience. It requires fast shutter speeds and low-light techniques to capture the dynamic atmosphere of a live show.

Travel Portraiture

Travel portraiture focuses on capturing portraits of people from different cultures and regions while traveling. These portraits often reflect the subject's environment and can provide a powerful sense of place, identity, and local culture.

Learn more about travel photography here.

Black and White Photography

Black and white photography removes colour from images, focusing on the contrasts of light and dark, shapes, textures, and composition. It often enhances mood, drama, and timelessness, and is a classic approach to many photographic genres.

Black and White Photography – Master the Art

Minimalist Photography

Minimalist photography emphasizes simplicity, using a sparse composition with few elements. It highlights negative space, clean lines, and the power of simplicity to evoke emotion or focus attention on a single subject or detail.

Read the full breakdown on Minimalist Photography here.

Lomography

Lomography involves shooting with analogue cameras that often produce distinctive, experimental, and unpredictable results, including high contrast, vignetting, and saturated colours. It embraces a fun, creative approach to photography, often emphasizing spontaneity and imperfection.

Infrared Landscape Photography

Infrared landscape photography uses infrared light to create surreal and dreamlike images of landscapes. Foliage often appears bright white, skies darken, and clouds take on unusual textures, providing a unique, otherworldly view of natural environments.

Documentary Wedding Photography

Documentary wedding photography focuses on capturing authentic, candid moments from a wedding day. Rather than posed portraits, it tells the story of the day as it naturally unfolds, focusing on emotion, interaction, and atmosphere.

Fine Art Wedding Photography

Fine art wedding photography combines traditional wedding photography with an artistic approach, focusing on creative compositions, soft lighting, and stylized shots to create visually stunning and emotionally evocative wedding images.

Environmental Portraiture

Environmental portraiture captures individuals in their natural surroundings or work environments, providing context that adds meaning to the subject. It emphasizes the relationship between the subject and their environment, giving insight into their personality, occupation, or lifestyle.

High-Speed Sports Photography

High-speed sports photography captures fast-moving athletes and action with extremely fast shutter speeds, often freezing split-second moments in dynamic sports like football, basketball, or motorsports.

Urban Night Photography

Urban night photography captures cityscapes and street scenes after dark, often focusing on the interplay of artificial lights, reflections, and the atmosphere of the urban environment at night.

Learn more in our Photographing Cities at Night course.

Headshot Photography

Headshot photography focuses on capturing clear, well-lit portraits of individuals, often used for professional purposes like resumes, actor portfolios, or social media profiles. The emphasis is on the subject's face and expression.

Master headshot photography with Mark McGee

Fine Art Landscape Photography

Fine art landscape photography captures nature in a highly stylized or artistic way, focusing on the beauty, light, and mood of the environment. The aim is to create visually striking images that evoke emotion or convey a deeper connection to the natural world.

Make stunning fine art landscape photography with Trudy Kepke’s course.

Macro flower photography

Macro flower photography involves close-up shots of flowers, focusing on intricate details like petals, textures, and colours. It allows photographers to reveal the beauty of nature that’s often overlooked by the naked eye.

Get some Macro photography ideas here.

Street fashion portraits

Street fashion portraits combine elements of street photography and fashion photography, capturing models in urban environments. The emphasis is on spontaneous, stylish images that showcase trends and personal expression in real-world settings.

Editorial photography

Editorial photography is used in magazines, newspapers, and other publications to illustrate articles or stories. It can involve portraits, fashion, lifestyle, or conceptual images that support the theme or message of the accompanying text.

Family Photography

Family photography captures moments of families together, focusing on relationships, emotions, and memories. It can include posed portraits, candid shots, and milestone moments, such as birthdays, holidays, or family reunions.

Learn how to take Fine Art Family Photography with Sujata Setia.

Beauty photography

Beauty photography focuses on highlighting the features of a subject's face, often with an emphasis on makeup, hair, and skin. It’s commonly used in fashion, cosmetics, and skincare advertising, as well as in portraiture.

Self portrait photography

Self-portraiture involves taking photographs of oneself, typically to convey personal expression, identity, or creative vision. It can range from simple selfies to highly stylized, conceptual works that explore the photographer's inner thoughts or personality.

Additional Styles and Techniques

These are the cool tricks and approaches photographers can use across almost any type of photography. Think of them as techniques that can make any photo more interesting - whether you're shooting landscapes, portraits, or street scenes. These are the universal skills that can transform an ordinary photo into something extraordinary, no matter what you're photographing.

High Dynamic Range (HDR) Photography

HDR photography involves capturing multiple exposures of the same scene at different exposure levels and then merging them together to create an image with a greater dynamic range—meaning it captures both the darkest shadows and brightest highlights. This results in a more detailed and balanced image, particularly in scenes with extreme contrasts of light.

Learn how to do HDR in Lightroom.

Panoramic Photography

Panoramic photography captures wide, sweeping views, often extending horizontally to encompass a vast scene. It can be achieved by using specialized panoramic cameras or by stitching multiple images together to create a wide-angle view that represents a broader field of vision than a standard photo.

Learn how to create panoramic shots in Lightroom.

Light Painting

Light painting photography is a creative technique where the photographer uses long exposure times while moving a light source (such as a flashlight, LED wand, or sparklers) in front of the camera. This creates a glowing or streaking light effect in the image, often resulting in abstract or artistic compositions.

Master light painting in our Beginner’s course.

Multiple Exposure Photography

Multiple exposure photography combines two or more exposures into a single image, creating a layered effect. This technique can blend different subjects or scenes into one photograph, often conveying a sense of abstraction, dreaminess, or narrative through visual storytelling.

Blending multiple exposures in Photoshop.

Cyanotype

Cyanotype photography is an alternative photographic process that produces blue-toned prints. The technique involves placing objects or negatives on a light-sensitive surface (usually paper or fabric) and exposing it to UV light. The result is a cyan-blue image with unique textural and tonal qualities.

Pinhole Photography

Pinhole photography is one of the simplest forms of photography, where light enters a camera through a tiny hole (the "pinhole") instead of a lens. The long exposure times and the lack of lens distortion give pinhole photos a soft, dreamlike quality. It can be used to create unique, low-tech images with a vintage or experimental feel.

Smartphone Photography

Smartphone photography refers to taking pictures using a mobile phone camera. With advancements in phone camera technology, smartphones are now capable of producing high-quality images. This genre has become widely popular due to the convenience, portability, and increasingly sophisticated features of modern smartphone cameras.

Here’s some of our smartphone photography tips!

Film Photography

Film photography involves using traditional film to capture images, as opposed to digital sensors. This analogue process requires developing the exposed film in a darkroom or via a lab. Film photography is prized for its grain, colour rendering, and organic look, and is often preferred for artistic or nostalgic purposes.

Digital Photography

Digital photography uses electronic sensors to capture images, storing them on digital memory cards instead of film. Digital photos can be easily edited, shared, and processed with software. It has become the most common form of photography due to its convenience, flexibility, and ability to produce high-resolution images.

Master digital photography in our complete Beginner’s Photography Course.

Conceptual Still Life Photography

Conceptual still-life photography involves carefully arranging inanimate objects to represent abstract ideas, themes, or emotions. The objects, lighting, and composition are selected to convey a deeper message, making this genre a form of visual storytelling or artistic expression.

Panoramic Astrophotography

Panoramic astrophotography combines the principles of panoramic photography with capturing celestial bodies, such as stars, planets, and galaxies. It involves taking multiple wide-angle exposures of the night sky and stitching them together to create a sweeping, detailed image of the cosmos.

Check out our in-depth Astrophotography course.

Light Trail Photography

Light trail photography captures the motion of light sources, such as car headlights or street lights, over a long exposure period. This technique creates streaks of light in the image, often used to convey movement and energy. It's commonly used in urban or night photography.

Light Trail Photography – Settings and Techniques Explained

Smoke Art Photography

Smoke art photography captures the fluid, ephemeral patterns created by smoke. Using long exposures, creative lighting, and careful control of smoke (often from incense or other sources), this technique produces abstract and mesmerizing images of smoke swirling in the air.

Studio Photography

Studio photography takes place in a controlled environment, typically indoors, where lighting, backgrounds, and other elements can be precisely arranged. This genre includes portraiture, product photography, fashion shoots, and other images where the photographer has full control over the setting.

Master the studio in our Studio Lighting Course.

Flash photography

Flash photography uses an artificial light source (a flash) to illuminate a subject, typically in low-light situations or when additional light is needed. Flash photography can freeze motion, fill in shadows, or provide creative effects, and is commonly used in portrait, event, and action photography.

Natural Lighting Photography

Natural lighting photography relies on sunlight or ambient light from the environment to illuminate subjects, rather than artificial lighting. It is often used for outdoor portraits, lifestyle shoots, and scenic photography, as it creates a soft, natural look that can add warmth or mood to the image.

Reflection photography

Reflection photography captures the mirror-like reflection of a subject in water, glass, or other reflective surfaces. This technique adds a layer of depth and symmetry to the image, creating a striking visual effect, especially when combined with elements of the natural world or urban environments.

Instant photography

Instant photography uses specialized cameras (such as Polaroid or Fujifilm Instax) to instantly print a physical photo after it's taken. This genre is nostalgic and focuses on the immediacy of physical prints, often producing retro or vintage-style images with unique characteristics due to the instant printing process.

Iron wool photography

Iron wool photography involves igniting steel wool and spinning it to create light trails and sparks during a long exposure. This technique produces fiery, dynamic images with intricate light patterns and is often used for dramatic and creative effects in night photography.

Check out our iron wool photography tutorial here.

Composite photography

Composite photography involves combining multiple images into a single final image, often through digital manipulation. This technique allows photographers to blend different elements (such as different exposures, scenes, or subjects) to create surreal, conceptual, or fantastical compositions that wouldn't be possible in a single shot.

Learn how to create composites in Photoshop.

Double Exposure photography

Double-exposure photography combines two different exposures into a single image, often blending subjects or scenes in creative and artistic ways. This technique can be achieved through multiple exposures on film or by combining digital layers, producing surreal or conceptual results that tell a deeper story.

Learn more about Double Exposure.

Conclusion

Of course, this is not an entirely exhaustive list. The world of photography is a vast and ever-evolving universe, offering endless opportunities for creative exploration. Embrace the challenge, step outside your comfort zone, and discover the hidden gems that await you in this diverse landscape. Remember, the most important thing is to find what sparks your passion and drives you to create.

Excited to embark on a photographic adventure? Become a TSOP member and we'll equip you with the knowledge and inspiration you need to master your craft.

Happy shooting!

Check out these tutorials below

I hope you liked our blog on dance photography. If you did, please leave us a comment, support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media, so please join us there as well.

Thanks for reading – Learn more at The School of Photography.

NB: Below there are some affiliate links and TSOP will receive a small percentage of some purchases made.

What is a camera tripod for?

At its core, a camera tripod is designed to keep your camera still. That’s its primary purpose. The secondary goal is portability. Ideally, your tripod should be lightweight and easy to carry for extended periods. However, don’t fall into the common trap of choosing the lightest tripod possible. If your camera is too heavy for the tripod, it will wobble in the wind. The laws of physics matter here: stability should always come before ultra-lightweight convenience. The size of your kit will largely depend on the sensor size of your camera - read our full breakdown on camera sensor sizes here.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Camera Tripod Materials: Aluminium vs. Carbon Fibre

Tripods are typically made from either aluminium or carbon fibre. Here are the main differences:

·       Carbon fibre is lighter and just as strong as aluminium, but it comes at a higher price—expect to pay around £100 more for a carbon fibre version.

·       Aluminium is heavier, but it’s a cheaper material to produce. It’s not that much heavier than its carbon fibre counterpart, so if you’re on a budget, aluminium is a perfectly good choice.

Tripod Leg Extensions: Stability vs. Compactness

Camera tripod legs are divided into sections, and the number of sections affects both stability and portability.

·       Fewer sections mean greater stability.

·       More sections mean the tripod packs down smaller, which is great for travel.

Rule of thumb: Avoid camera tripods with more than four leg sections, as the bottom extension will be too thin and unstable. Remember stability is the key priority, not compactness. until my exposure meter reads zero.

Camera Tripod Leg Locking Mechanisms

There are two main types of locking mechanisms for:

·       Clamp-locking system: Easier and quicker to use, but bulkier.

·       Twist-lock mechanism: Slightly more compact, making it ideal for travel, but slower and more awkward to use.

Personally, I prefer twist-locks when I’m on the go as it makes the tripod more compact and suitable to put into your camera bag.

Looking to invest in a camera bag? Learn about camera bags here.

Camera Tripod Quick Release Systems

Most camera tripods come with a quick release system, allowing you to swiftly attach or detach your camera to the tripod. There is a quick release plate which screws onto the bottom of your camera. Any quick release plates will screw onto any camera as they are all made to a standard size. However, any quick release plates will not fit any tripod. If you do need to buy a new plate, make sure it plate matches your tripod’s system. The common plate types are below:

·       ARCA Swiss System: Different brands use this system, so it offers some cross-brand compatibility.

·       Manfrotto: Uses its own system, but replacement plates are easy to find, and their quick release system is very quick to use.

The key is to ensure your chosen tripod includes a quick release plate.

The Best Camera Tripod Height

Manufacturers often advertise the maximum height of a camera tripod with the centre column fully extended. However, this "bonus height" can introduce instability. Focus instead on the stable height of the tripod; this is where the 3 tripod legs meet.

Ideal tripod height: With the tripod head attached, it should reach around your chest height. In some cases, this could mean a heavier tripod. So, if you’re travelling, a shorter, lighter tripod may be more practical, even if it means shooting from a lower angle.

Camera Tripod Heads

Tripods come in two parts: the legs and the head. The head is crucial for how you position and move your camera. There are three main types to choose from, they are:

Ball Head

·       How it works: The camera sits on a ball joint, allowing free movement when loosened.

·       Pros: This tripod head is very quick to adjust and is the most compact.

·       Cons: This tripod head can be less precise for fine composition movements.

Pan and Tilt Head

·       How it works: Separate handles control horizontal (pan) and vertical (tilt) movement.

·       Pros: This tripod head provides greater accuracy when positioning your camera than a ball joint head.

·       Cons: The pan and tilt tripod head is bulkier and heavier than the ball head option.

Gear Head

·       How it works: The gear tripod head is similar to the pan and tilt head, but with geared levers which provide precise, incremental adjustments.

·       Pros: The geared levers on the gear tripod head allow for maximum precision when positioning your camera.

·       Cons: The gear head is a bulky, heavy and expensive option.

The one we’re using as an example is the Manfrotto MHX PRO 3WG, which, at the time of filming, retailed at approximately £179.

Camera Tripod Brands, Models, and Price Points

There are loads of tripod brands out there with just as many options within them all. Here I’m going to talk about the two brands we use here at TSOP. Manfrotto tripods (high-end brand) and K&F Concept (budget option).

Manfrotto 190 Camera Tripod

·       Type: Available in Aluminium and Carbon Fibre.

·       Price: £200 with a pan and tilt head (Aluminium model). The carbon fibre version of this model retails for around £90 more.

This tripod is extremely sturdy and can handle heavy gear with ease, so it’s perfect for those who have a full-frame kit.  

K&F Concept TC2534 Camera Tripod

Type: Budget Carbon Fibre travel tripod

Price: £80

This tripod, now no longer being sold, is a budget model. Unfortunately, when I used it, parts of it broke and had to be replaced, so this is an example of something to be wary of when shopping for more budget tripods.

K&F X284C4 Camera Tripod

Type: Carbon Fibre tripod.

Price: £139 with ball head.

K&F sent us this tripod to test out, and it’s a step up against the previous tripod I tried from them. It’s sturdy and at a nice height, and should be able to hold a full frame kit still. So far so good with this one.

The Best Camera Tripod - Marc’s Recommendations:

Manfrotto 190 - For full frame camera kits:  

This tripod is very sturdy and will keep your kit still. It’s a heavier tripod that will be able to keep still a larger and heavier kit.

You can find it on WEX here.

You can find it on Adorama here.

Manfrotto BeFree - Travel tripod:

This tripod is best if you have a smaller kit like a crop sensor or micro 4:3. It’s a reliable compact tripod for travelling. You’ve also got the option to choose either Aluminium or Carbon Fibre, depending on your budget.

You can find it on WEX here.

You can find it on Adorama here.

K&F X284C4 – Budget Tripod:

A sturdy option and at a cheaper price than the two other tripods, and this could potentially keep a full frame kit still, although I have not put that to the test. This tripod is very good for the price, as it averages around £100 cheaper than the Manfrotto models. A good choice for the photographer on a budget.

You can find it on K&F Concept here.

Conclusion

Choosing the right tripod doesn’t have to be overwhelming. By understanding the key differences in materials, leg designs, locking mechanisms, quick release systems, and tripod heads, you can confidently select a model that matches your camera setup, shooting style, and budget.

Remember, stability should always be your top priority. Consider the tips above and take the time to match your needs. Try to avoid common pitfalls, and invest in a tripod that best fits your photography style, and then that tripod will serve you well for years to come.

Happy shooting!

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this blog about choosing the best tripod for you. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

Exposure bracketing is a photography technique that helps you capture the perfect exposure, especially when the light is tricky. Whether you're a beginner or have experience, learning about exposure bracketing can really improve your photography and in this beginner’s guide, we’re going to go through the A-Z of what, why and how!

What is exposure bracketing in Photography?

Let’s begin with the “what?”. Exposure bracketing is taking a series of images, of the same subject at different exposures. E.g. a bright exposure, a medium exposure, and a dark exposure of the scene. In other words, you are creating a bracket of bright and dark exposures around your middle exposure. Exposure bracketing is the most common form of bracketing in photography, used to capture multiple exposures of the same scene.

Learn how to expose photography correctly here.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Why would you bracket an exposure of a scene?

Historically, the practice of exposure bracketing comes from the film photography days. There were no digital screens to show you the shot you got! So, you’d take shots of the same scene at a series of different exposures to ensure you ended up with a properly exposed image once you got back to the darkroom, hence a ‘bracketed’ image.

When it comes to digital photography, exposure bracketing is pretty much done for the same reason. You take multiple exposures of the same scene but instead of taking them back to a darkroom, you take them into a digital program like Lightroom and choose the best exposure to process from there.

The difference between exposure bracketing for digital photography is the post-processing options you have available. In programs like Lightroom, you’re able to HDR merge your bracketed exposures or blend the sky into the ground to get a more balanced exposure. With bracketing in digital photography, you’re able to get the maximum details out of all areas of your shot. E.g. you can get the maximum detail out of the shadows, highlights, colours, texture and so on.

In the example video, I’m shooting the dark side of the church on a very bright day. This will give me maximum contrast in a scene – and this is where exposure bracketing can really help you out.

Learn how to HDR merge in Lightroom here.

How to use exposure bracketing

The method to bracket your images is actually really simple. There are two common ways to do it. The first way to bracket is to do so manually.

Technique 1 - Manual exposure bracketing

Firstly, get your composition the way you want, focus the scene and take an exposure reading. With manual exposure bracketing, you want to keep your aperture and ISO fixed for each bracketed image. It’s best if only use the shutter speed changes. You can do it by adjusting the ISO and aperture, but just using the shutter speed as a way of changing your exposure gives the best results. But, the scene will have to be still between each exposure.

To get an exposure reading, focus in on your scene and choose your aperture and ISO for the visual effect you want. This is a landscape shot, so I’m going to put the camera, on F11 to ensure things are sharp and clear from the foreground to the background, and I will set the cameras lowest native ISO to give minimum noise which is ISO 125. Then to get an exposure reading, I change the shutter speed until my exposure meter reads zero.

For this particular scene, we’ve got a shutter speed of 1/60th Second, which puts the meter reading just under zero. Using the 2-second timer to avoid any camera shake when I press the shutter, I’m going to take an exposure of the scene. This will be correctly exposed, as per the camera’s light meter.

For this image, I’m going to take a three-shot, two-stop bracket.

I’m going to take my next shot two stops darker, which is a shutter speed of 1/250th second. Then I take another shot which is two stops brighter, which is a shutter speed to 1/15th second.

What I have here is now three pictures of the same scene, one is a ‘base’ exposure, one two stops brighter and one two stops darker - that is a bracketed shot of the scene.

Learn about stops in photography here.

Technique 2 - Auto exposure bracketing (AEB)

The other way to bracket your images, an even simpler way, and the one I recommend, is Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB). All modern mirrorless or DSLR cameras have this feature. On the Fujifilm camera I’m using, I flick the dial to bracket mode (BKT) and then go into the settings. On this camera it’s under ‘drive settings’ and then “BKT settings”. Go down to “AE BKT” and then ‘Frame/step setting’. Here I’m able to configure how many ‘frames’, i.e. brackets I want, and the stops of light difference between each bracket. For this shot, we’re going to use 3 frames with a difference of 2 stops between them all.

Now you have your preferred settings in your camera, set your Aperture and ISO to what you want for the scene. Then set your shutter speed to “Auto”. Set the 2-second timer again, press the shutter, and the camera does the rest for you.

The camera very quickly takes three separate shots of the scene – the base exposure, the brighter exposure and the darker exposure.

At this point, exposure bracketing may seem complex, but it is actually simple, if you understand what stops of light are. You can find out more about stops of light in our Beginner Photography Course.

Post Processing and exposure bracketing

Here’s the side-by-side comparison of the single shot image and a HDR merge version using the bracketed shots. With software like Lightroom, you’re able to bring out the shadows and rescue some of the highlights with just to edit the single shot, but there will be some degrading. This doesn’t happen anywhere near as much with HDR merged bracketed images.

Basically, the more you push and pull a RAW file, the more degradation you’ll get in those areas in the form of noise and speckles. In a HDR merge, you are not going to get this because it the file has at least 3 times more detail within it.

Learn processing RAW files in Lightroom here.

Things to consider when exposure bracketing

Your scene needs to be still

For bracketing images, you’ll want the scene you’re photographing to be as still as possible. Ideally, subjects like landscapes and buildings. You generally won’t be using this technique to capture portraiture.

Only the shutter speed changes

As I mentioned previously, it’s only the shutter speed that you’ll want to be changing in your bracket. You can do it with Aperture and ISO, but it’s not advised as you want your noise and/or depth of field to be the same in each image.

No image limit in brackets

You can take as many brackets as you like, there are no limits! But something to remember is that the more brackets you merge, the bigger your file will be. Usually it’s a 3-5-7 shot bracket. Most commonly 3 shots at a 2-stop interval will work fine.

Do you need to use exposure bracketing?

Do you actually need to bracket a shot and HDR merge it in this day and age? It’s a really good debate, and with modern, full-frame mirrorless cameras the RAW files that you get are absolutely superb – there’s so much detail in them already!

Take a look at this single shot that I edited. In this particular image the sun was behind me, so the scene in front of me wasn’t that contrasty. Therefore, the raw file needed very little processing for an even and balanced exposure.

Where exposure bracketing is going to help you is firstly, you make sure you have a decent exposure when you get back into Lightroom, and secondly, it gives you the option to merge images when presented with a contrasted situation. I think if you’re not trying to capture a contrasty scene a one-shot image is going to be fine to process, but if there’s lots of contrast then you’re probably going to want to merge a bracketed image.

Examples

Below are a series of bracketed images with the final processed version.

Conclusion

Exposure bracketing is a helpful tool for photographers. It ensures you get the best exposure in challenging lighting conditions. Even with modern cameras, bracketing is useful when there's a big contrast between light and dark within your scene. By using this technique, you can create better exposures with more detail. It's easy to try out, and it can really enhance your photography skills!

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this blog about exposure bracketing. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

Before you buy a camera bag, you need to answer the questions below. This will effectively teach you how to choose the best camera bag for you.

You’ll find a link to these products at the end of this blog. 

What is a camera bag for?

Firstly, we’ll tackle the obvious – what is the purpose of a camera bag? It’s to keep your kit safe as you go out and shoot, and to keep it dry (we’ll cover this in more detail later.)

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

What type of camera bag do you need?

Everybody has different needs when it comes to camera bags, but it basically breaks down into two very simple things:

1.           Comfort – you want it to be as comfortable as possible

2.           Size – You want it to fit everything you need correctly

Firstly, figure out the kit you’ve got and then choose a size that is a little bit bigger than your kit size. For example, you’ll see product pages with descriptions such as “fits one camera body and two lenses”. If that is your kit, you want to get a bag that can carry more, so that it will be suitable as your kit grows.

It’s important to get this balance right, as you want a bag that has enough space to grow into, but not too much space so it’s too big to carry around. So, go for a bag that has a little bit more extra space than the kit you currently have.

What is your kit type?

Do you have a DLSR? Do you have a mirrorless camera?

Most people have the mirrorless system these days, but there is still an argument to be made for the DLSR as it’s cheaper and still a well-made option. If you’re shooting with a DSLR, you’re going to need a slightly bigger camera bag as the bodies and lenses for these cameras are larger than the mirrorless system.

Find out more on DSLRs and Mirrorless here.

Next, what is your sensor size?

Are you using a full frame kit? An APS-C or Micro 4:3 kit? A bigger sensor means a bigger camera body, bigger lenses and a heavier kit overall so this is important to consider when thinking about how much space you need. The size of your bag will also be dictated by the type of sensor that you go for.

If you’re not too sure what a full frame or aps-c or Micro 4:3 sensor is, check out our full tutorial here.

The essentials of a camera bag

Tripod holder

This is a part of a camera bag that is designed to hold a tripod. They come in different places on different bags and are essential if you need to take a tripod on your travels.

Compartments

You need spots to hold all the different tools you need as a photographer like air blowers, camera cloths, multi tools, a torch etc.

Something that is not essential, but really handy to have is a laptop or tablet compartment – this is only essential for those that travel around with these as part of their kit.

A Rain Cover

You may well think to yourself that these camera bags are waterproof, and they are to a certain extent – until you encounter heavy rain. Most good bags that you buy today, will come with their own rain cover but just double check that before you buy. Some have them built into the bag and some come separately. All you do, when it starts to rain, is put the cover over the top of your bag.

Types of camera bags

There are many different types of camera bags, and each one has its pros and cons, but here you are mainly thinking about the comfort of the bag and the ease of access as you’re out on a shoot.

The main types of bags are:

Over the shoulder camera bag: These go over your shoulder and hang around your hip.

Rucksack camera bag: This type goes over your shoulders and sits on your back. The rucksack bags tend to have another strap that goes around your waist and chest area for additional support and comfort.

Small bags: Usually fit one camera.

We’ll also have a look at front opening bags, back opening bags, side opening bags – all these things you must consider when you’re looking for a new camera bag!

The small camera bag

This one is a budget model, and it holds one camera and lens. It’s perfect if you’re just going out for the day with one camera.

The over the shoulder bag

The next style is the over-the-shoulder bag. I’ve got two options here, the Lowepro bag, which is currently full of my canon gear, the body, the lenses, a flash gun and accessories, and there’s plenty of space for it – it’s a big bag. It’s also very robust. These types of bags are easy access and hold lots of gear but are not that comfortable if you are walking around all day.

The other version of the over the shoulder bag that we’ll be looking at is a Billingham bag. This brand is known for being extremely good quality, well-made and they’re British made too. They will last forever but are quite expensive. This is a smaller bag, and I use it quite a lot. You can fit your camera in there with another lens and a bottle of water and comfortably go around London for the day shooting.

Rucksack Type

Rucksack camera bags are the most popular type of camera bag, and in my opinion, this is because they’re the most comfortable to use. They just pop onto your back and then you’re off. Let’s look at a few examples.

The Lowepro BP 350 AWII; This bag I’ve had a long time and it’s been all over the world with me. It’s a bit on the bigger side of camera bags (they do come even bigger!) and is probably as big as we need as we use an APS-C mirrorless system when we’re out filming.

In here, we’ve had 3 bodies, loads of lenses, filters, accessories and then in the front there’s a laptop and tablet compartment – it’s an overall neat package that you can pack a lot of gear into. This bag was purchased as it’s the right size to go on a plane as cabin luggage, so if you travel a lot with your camera, that is something to consider! This model also has an in-built rain cover that can be tucked away at the bottom. It also has a tripod holder at each side of the bag.

Next up is the Tamrac bag – it’s a very robust and big bag that fits loads of kit – even more so than the Lowepro. This camera bag comes with its rain cover as a separate. The way you store your tripod on this bag is a little different – you just wedge it into the slots – and it works quite well!

Going down in size now, we’ve got two bags from ThinkTankPhoto. These are really good quality bags and here we have the Mirrorless Mover and the Backlight Sprint. These bags are a little bit smaller, but they’re perfect for one/two bodies and two/three lenses. You may even be able to get more in the mirrorless mover as it’s a little bigger.

In terms of functional design, there are a couple of differences between these two bags that would affect your choice. The mirrorless mover is a front opening bag, and the Backlight sprint is a back opening camera bag.

The more safety conscious photographers may lean more towards a back opening bag as no one will be able to unzip it from behind while you’re out and about. Whereas a front opening back easier to access.

Both these rucksacks have a tripod holder which you can have on either the left or the right of the bag. 

Another feature of the mirrorless mover is that there’s a pocket for your laptop or tablet at the front.

The next one is the K&F Concept backpack – this is more of a budget option, but still well made. The difference between this backpack and the two others from thinktank is that there are more ways to access the contents. You’ve got an opening at the top, the two sides, the back and the front of this bag. This comes in handy for those that are travelling around with things other than cameras and they want to separate everything into different compartments.

Brand quality of camera bags

With camera bags, I’m of the opinion that paying a little bit more for better quality is best. This is because a camera bag will be you a long time, so you want the best quality within your budget.

To demonstrate this, I have an Amazon basics camera bag (£30) next to a ThinkTank Backlight bag (£126). On the surface, they look similar. The amazon basics bag is in no way bad, it does the job it was intended. However, when you start to look closer between the bags you can start to see the difference in quality in the builds of each bag. For example, the padding seems much more robust on the ThinkTank bag, and the zips are bigger and thicker. This bag will stand the test of time; the Amazon basics may not last as long. Quite simply, you get what you pay for when it comes to camera bags.

Marc’s picks for the best camera bag

Lowepro BP 350 AW2 camera bag

This is the one that I use the most. It goes everywhere with us when we are filming our photography courses. I can fit nearly all our equipment in this bag (we do also bring along the Tamrac for overflow!). This is mainly because kit sizes have shrunk over the years. If you look at this bag, you wouldn’t think that it’s been up and down mountains, in and out of planes, chucked in and out of the boot of car hundreds of times, you’d just think it were a few weeks old. This is the sign of a good bag. I also like the way that this goes on a plane as cabin luggage without anyone moaning at you!

Billingham camera Bag

This bag was given to me, but I’ve used it so much since I received it! It’s like my holiday camera bag or when I’m out with the family. I can have it over my shoulder easily and, as I’m not on a professional shoot, so I don’t need much kit, just a camera body, lens, a battery and whatever else that I need to put in there. I can also chuck my other stuff in there as I’m out and about. And again, I’ve used this bag loads and you’d think that this was brand new!

ThinkTank Mirrorless Mover camera bag

This bag was sent to us by ThinkTankPhoto but I can see this becoming a new favourite. It’s really compact, and you can get loads in it. I have been looking for a bag like that for long time.

Something you can see with both this one and the Lowepro one, is that they’re not too complex to use and don’t have too many pockets. This is also a plus for me!

Conclusion

Finding the right camera bag is all about understanding your specific needs and preferences. Answer the questions above and you will be well on your way to choosing the best camera bag for you.

Whether you’re looking for comfort, space, or the best protection for your gear, there’s a camera bag out there that fits perfectly with your style of shooting. Remember to consider the size of your kit, your shooting habits, and your travel needs. Whether you're a casual photographer or a seasoned pro, investing in a durable, well-designed camera bag will not only keep your gear safe but also make your shooting experience more enjoyable and efficient. So, take your time, weigh your options, and choose a bag that works for you – after all, it's something you'll be relying on for years to come.

Looking to buy any of these bags?

If you’re looking to buy any of these bags, we recommend using Wex Photo Video here.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this blog about choosing the best camera bag for you. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

The Brief for The Hero Shot

Firstly, what is a ‘Hero shot’? A ‘hero shot’ is the stand-out image for your company or product. The intention for our hero image is for it to be the main image on our website banner and the background image for our stand at The Photography and Video Show – it’ll end up being printed 6ft tall and seen by ten’s of thousands. So in this image we want to encompass everything we do here at TSOP. The aim is to create something, timeless, classic and undeniably about photography. This image will also be the one we use for all our marketing material for the show!

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

The Equipment for The Hero Shot

For this shoot, we’ve set up a studio and are using flashheads with double diffused softboxes attached, and a textured backdrop. As a prop, we’ve sourced a vintage camera (£4 from eBay!)!

Want to know more about studio lighting? Learn more in our Studio Photography Course.

Here’s the full equipment list:

Fujifilm X-T50 and XF 50mm f1 Lens

We’re going to use the actual camera model that you could win in our giveaway at the Photography and Video Show (Details Below). Kindly provided by Fujifilm, the X-T50. This APS-C body currently retails for around £1,149 and it’s beautiful. It is a lovely little camera for beginners and photography enthusiasts alike. The one you could win will come with the XF16-50mm lens, but for this photo shoot, we will be using the XF 50mm f1 prime lens that Fujifilm has sent us to try out.

Find out how you could be in with a chance of winning this and more in our Photography and Video Show Giveaway – details below!

Flash head with double diffused softbox

There are two different types of softbox that we might use for this shoot, the first being a standard rectangular softbox that is double diffused on a studio flash head. We’ll also introduce a grid softbox later in the shoot as we experiment with lighting the shot to add more of a dramatic flair.

5 Pro Portrait Lighting Setups – On a Budget!

Reflectors

We’re going to be using a large simple white reflector to fill in the shadows of the face and may also use a silver or white reflector underneath Rosie to bounce light back into the face.

Hair light

We also opted to use 2 other light later on in the shoot. One as a hair light and one as back light.

Backdrop

As we’re going for a classic vintage look, we’re going to be using a brownish textured backdrop that works with the vibe that we’re going for. The one we’re using is from KateBackdrop.

Atmosphere in A Can

Atmosphere in a can is a quick and easy (and relatively cheap) way to add some smoke to your shots. The plan for this is to spray this behind Rosie to add more texture to the shot – we’ll also use a background light, so it shines through the smoke to enhance this effect.

Settings For The Hero Shot

As we teach in our Studio Lighting course, you’ll want to do a lighting test to get the correct exposures when you’re working in a studio. You can use a handheld light meter to get the correct settings. After doing some tests our settings are:

1/125th second

f/5.6

ISO 125

When you’re using studio lighting, you’ll also need to set your White Balance to Flash.

The initial image is not a bad start – it’s clear and well-lit. Now we’re going to see how we can experiment to make this better and more eye-catching!

Want to master the basics? Check out our Beginner’s Photography Course here.

Experimentation For The Hero Shot

For the experimentation part of the hero shot shoot we wanted to experiment with different accessories then we will consider changing the lights and costume.

Working with Models - 4 Killer Tips.

Next we add a hair light. This is going to highlight the left of the face. You need to make sure you use barn doors to stop the light from going where you don’t want it.

For the next experiment, we’re going change the reflector to black to block the reflection of light on the left of the body. This will give a more dramatic lighting effect.

We added a grid to a softbox to channel the light further. We then added a bounce reflector beneath the body fill in some shadow areas on the face. It’s not made a huge amount of difference, but it’s significant enough to tell.

Top Tip: When changing lighting accessories, make sure you do another exposure test.

The Hero Shot

Now to add some more texture to the shot. We add some smoke and add a light behind Rosie shine through the smoke. This adds texture to the background of the image. Beware if you’re shooting indoors as it gets super smoky, very quickly!  

Attempt 1:

Attempt 2:

After waiting for the studio to air out, we decided to try this again, but this time with even more smoke! What do you think? Which is your favourite?

The Final Shot:

Here’s the final edited image that we have chosen for our hero shot. You’ll be able to see it printed 6ft tall at our stand (F185) at The Photography and Video Show in March. And as the banner image on our website!

Win 3K Photography Gear

Want to be in with a chance of winning £3k of photography gear including the Fujifilm X-T50 that we used to get this shot? Visit us at The Photography and Video Show from the 8th to the 11th of March 2025 on stand F185 to enter!

Here’s the full list of what you can win:

Fujifilm X-T50 Camera Body

Fujifilm XF 16-50mm Lens

Lowepro Freeline BP 350 Backpack

Manfrotto BeFree Advanced AS Lever Aluminuim Tripod

LeeFilters LEE100 Deluxe Kit+

Kentfaith Camera Strap

Kentfaith Cleaning Kit

£100 Wex Photo Video Voucher

£100 BobBooks Voucher

That’s not all that we’ve got going on during the Photography and Video Show, we’ll also be putting on special talks from our photographers and have an EXCLUSIVE show offer for those who visit our stand – not to be missed!

Our Talks:

• “A Photographer’s Exploration of Purpose” Sujata Setia, Sat 8th March, 2.45PM, Beyond The Lens Stage.

• “Scroll Stopping Street Photography” Mr Whisper, Sun 9th March, 11.05AM, Beyond The Lens Stage

• “How To Process Spring Forest Photography” Jack Lodge, Sun 9th March, 1.00PM, Stand F185

• “Astrophotography For Beginners” Ben Bush, Tues 11th March, 1.45PM, Stand F185

• “The Beginner Photography Road Map - Your Path To Success” Marc Newton, 8th, 10th, 11th March 11am | Sun 9th March 3.30PM

Get 20% off entry tickets using code SOP25. Click here to get your tickets

We’ll see you at the show!

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you liked finding out about the process of capturing our hero shot for The Photography and Video Show 2025. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

Photography Skill One: Street Photography

The reason I’m giving you this idea is because it’s really accessible, and it will speed up your photography taking skills. It will speed up your vision because when you’re out on the street, you’ve got to see interesting things quite instantly. It will speed you up with camera settings and, if you see something good, you’ve got to be quick and be able to get your camera settings right instantly.

It will also help you learn very quickly from your own mistakes because that speed is hard to do for anyone, whether you’re a pro or an amateur. When you get things wrong, like pictures going blurry for instance, you can quickly analyse them and put them right on the spot. So, it’s a really good photography skill to improve your use of camera settings and finding interesting things quickly.

Here are my top tips for street photography:

Tip 1- Limit Yourself:

Limit yourself to one focal length, one battery, one card—just go out with that. If you’ve got a prime lens, I strongly recommend you use it for street photography. If not, keep your focal length to 35 or 50 mm. That limitation will give you an extra challenge to get things right quickly. If you don’t know what focal lengths or prime lenses are, check out our Beginner’s course!

Tip 2 – The Busier It Is, The More Invisible You Will Be:

Walking around on the street with a camera is not an easy thing. You feel like everyone’s looking at you. But, if you’re in a busy area, you just sink into the background. If you’re in an area that’s not so busy, you do stand out. So, find a busy area to start practicing your street photography.

Tip 3 – Don’t Walk the Length of a City:

Instead of walking miles trying to find a good picture, find interesting spaces and just wait for life to appear within it.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Photography Skill Two: Forest Photography

The reason I’m setting you this one is because it’s extremely difficult to see the forest through the trees. I personally find forest photography really hard. It’s also a great way to improve your compositional skills and the way you frame the world in a photograph.

If you’ve got something as chaotic as a forest and can compose that to make it look good in a square or rectangle, then you’re doing a good job. Forest photography is also excellent for practicing your use of natural light, which isn’t easy I can tell you! Thankfully, in most cases, forest photography is accessible. You just need to walk to a woodland area or drive to a forest.

Here are my top tips:

Tip 1 - Remove the White:

Focus in the woodland. Any white areas in the sky or above the trees needs to be cropped out.

Tip 2 - Cloudy Days Are Better:

For most photography, you want lovely sunrises and sunsets, but in a forest, that light can be too harsh on the leaves and trees. A cloudy day is a good as it provides a softer even light.

Tip 3 - Use the Rule of Odds:

Frame your composition using odd numbers—threes, fives, sevens. Odd numbers bring a sense of harmony to the chaotic forest. Even numbers like twos and fours can create a sense of order that doesn’t look right in a forest.

If you’re interested in mastering this genre of photography, we’ve got an in-depth pro course with over seven hours of forest photography content. Check out our Forest Photography Course here.

Photography Skill Three: Still Life Photography

If you can’t go outside for whatever reason, that shouldn’t stop you from taking photos. You can create still life images with whatever you have lying around - flowers, fruit, or even household items.

Still life photography is ideal for practicing camera settings in a controlled environment. It also helps you explore composition and lighting techniques at a slower pace.

Here are my top tips:

Tip 1 - Soften the Light:

Use a large window for natural light. If the light isn’t soft enough, use chiffon fabric, net curtains, or similar material to diffuse it for a softer effect.

Tip 2 - Choose an Appropriate Background:

The background should complement the subject without being too distracting. You can use paper, fabric, wallpaper, or even buy specific backgrounds for product or still life photography.

Tip 3 - Use a Reflector:

Reflectors bounce light back onto the subject, filling shadows and reducing contrast. You can use materials like polystyrene, white card, or silver foil.

Product Photography Made Easy!

Photography Skill Four: Headshot Photography

Rather than generalizing portraiture, for this photography skill I want you focus on headshots. They are intimate and require you to connect deeply with your subject, which can be intimidating for beginners and therefore will challenge your skills!

Engaging with people builds confidence and teaches you how to bring out someone’s natural expressions. Plus, everyone loves a good headshot for their social media or business profiles.

Here are my top tips:

Tip 1 - Make Eye Contact:

Get your subject to look directly into the lens. Once that’s mastered, experiment with looking away or other directions.

Tip 2 - Use a Reflector:

A reflector under the subject can fill shadows and create catchlights in the eyes, enhancing the overall image.

Tip 3 - Zoom In and Get Close:

Zoom in rather than physically moving closer to compress the background and achieve a shallower depth of field.

Want to learn how to take professional Headshots? Check out our Headshot Photography Course.

Photography Skill Five: Cities at Night

Night photography in cities is very challenging but very rewarding. With bright city lights against the dark sky, you must rely on manual settings and your understanding of exposure. If you want to test your skills in working in manual, then this is genre of photography to try.

Here are my top tips:

Tip 1 - Use a Sturdy Tripod:

Long exposures require stability. A strong, durable tripod is essential to avoid blurry images.

Tip 2 - Experiment with Light Trails:

Capture streaks of light from cars or buses to practice controlling shutter speeds. Here’s a tutorial about how to create Light Trail Photography!

Tip 3 - Don’t Rely on the Camera’s Meter or Histogram:

Night photography often tricks these tools. Instead, use test shots to adjust exposure and ensure highlights and shadows are balanced.

Learn how to take stunning night photography in our Photographing Cities at Night Course.

Conclusion

These five photography challenges will not only make your practice more structured but also help you develop key photography skills in observation, composition, lighting, and exposure. Remember, photography is about experimenting, making mistakes, and learning from them—so take on these challenges with an open mind!

Share Your Ideas and Results

Do you have any other photography ideas? Share them in the comments! These five ideas are accessible and challenging, but I’d love to hear what’s worked for you.

When you try these challenges, share your results on social media using the hashtag #TheSchoolOfPhotography, we’ll check it out and engage with your posts.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you liked this blog putting these two kit combinations to the test. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.